{"id":2214,"date":"2026-08-06T14:12:48","date_gmt":"2026-08-06T12:12:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/2026\/08\/06\/ekmegin-icinde-ne-var-undan-cok-daha-fazlasi\/"},"modified":"2026-08-06T14:12:48","modified_gmt":"2026-08-06T12:12:48","slug":"ekmegin-icinde-ne-var-undan-cok-daha-fazlasi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/2026\/08\/06\/ekmegin-icinde-ne-var-undan-cok-daha-fazlasi\/","title":{"rendered":"Ekme\u011fin \u0130\u00e7inde Ne Var? Undan \u00c7ok Daha Fazlas\u0131"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/images.pexels.com\/photos\/6195\/bread-food-baking-homemade.jpg?auto=compress&#038;cs=tinysrgb&#038;fit=crop&#038;h=627&#038;w=1200\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;\"><\/p>\n<p>Sana bir \u015fey soraca\u011f\u0131m ve d\u00fcr\u00fcst cevap ver: Son ne zaman elinde tuttu\u011fun ekme\u011fe ger\u00e7ekten bakt\u0131n? Sadece &#8220;ac\u0131km\u0131\u015f\u0131m, yiyeyim&#8221; modunda de\u011fil \u2014 duraksay\u0131p, o kabu\u011fun rengine, o k\u0131r\u0131nt\u0131n\u0131n dokusuna, o kokuya bakt\u0131n m\u0131? Hay\u0131r m\u0131? Ben de \u00f6yle d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcm.<\/p>\n<p>Ekmek, tarihte en \u00e7ok g\u00f6rmezden gelinen nesnedir. Sofran\u0131n en ortas\u0131nda durur, ama kimse ondan bahsetmez. \u015earap hakk\u0131nda kitaplar yaz\u0131l\u0131r, peynirin i\u00e7in m\u00fczeler a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131r, zeytinya\u011f\u0131n\u0131n k\u00f6kenini tart\u0131\u015fmak i\u00e7in insanlar yurt d\u0131\u015f\u0131na u\u00e7ar. Ekmek? &#8220;Ver \u015funu bir de.&#8221; \u0130\u015fte bu kadar. (Bu arada, o &#8220;ver \u015funu&#8221; c\u00fcmlesindeki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcmseyici tonu duyuyor musun? Duyuyorsun. Ekmek de duyuyor.)<\/p>\n<p>Ama ekmek, sessizce, b\u00fct\u00fcn tarihin i\u00e7inden ge\u00e7mi\u015ftir. Ve i\u00e7inde ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015fey undan \u00e7ok daha a\u011f\u0131rd\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p><strong>On iki bin y\u0131l \u00f6nce, \u00dcrd\u00fcn \u00e7\u00f6l\u00fcnde biri bir kaza yapt\u0131.<\/strong> Tah\u0131l tohumlar\u0131 \u0131sland\u0131, bekledi, mayaland\u0131. Sonra s\u0131cak bir ta\u015f\u0131n \u00fczerinde pi\u015fti. O kaza, insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n seyrini de\u011fi\u015ftirdi. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc o andan itibaren insanlar yerle\u015fmeye karar verdi \u2014 &#8220;bunu tekrar yapmak istiyorum&#8221; diyerek. K\u00f6yler kuruldu, k\u00f6ylerden \u015fehirler \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131, \u015fehirlerden uygarl\u0131klar. Yani b\u00fct\u00fcn o filozoflar, sanat\u00e7\u0131lar, mucitler&#8230; hepsi bir anlamda o \u00e7\u00f6lde \u0131slanm\u0131\u015f tah\u0131l\u0131n miras\u00e7\u0131s\u0131d\u0131r. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcmseyebilirsin ekme\u011fi, ama o seni k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcmsemez. Sadece bekler.<\/p>\n<p>M\u0131s\u0131r&#8217;da ekmek para yerine ge\u00e7iyordu. \u0130\u015f\u00e7ilere \u00fccret olarak ekmek verilirdi \u2014 Nil&#8217;in kenar\u0131nda, piramitlerin in\u015faat\u0131nda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fanlara. Piramitleri dikenlerin midesinde ekmek vard\u0131. D\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn bunu: \u0130nsanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck an\u0131tlar\u0131ndan biri, bug\u00fcn h\u00e2l\u00e2 ayakta duran o ta\u015f y\u0131\u011f\u0131nlar\u0131, b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcde ekmekle in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Avrupa&#8217;da ekmek, s\u0131n\u0131f\u0131n somut g\u00f6stergesiydi.<\/strong> Orta \u00c7a\u011f&#8217;da kim ne renk ekmek yedi\u011fine bakarak kimin kim oldu\u011funu anlard\u0131n:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Beyaz ekmek:<\/strong> Soylular ve zenginler \u2014 rafine un, ince \u00f6\u011f\u00fct\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f, kabuk izi yok.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Gri ekmek:<\/strong> Orta s\u0131n\u0131f \u2014 \u00e7avdar ve bu\u011fday kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131, biraz sert, biraz k\u00fcsl\u00fck var \u00fcst\u00fcnde.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Siyah ekmek:<\/strong> K\u00f6yl\u00fcler ve yoksullar \u2014 kepekli, a\u011f\u0131r, bazen kum dahi kar\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f. Ama en besleyicisi de oydu. (\u0130roni bu i\u015fte. Her zaman \u00f6yle.)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Frans\u0131z Devrimi&#8217;nin fitilini ate\u015fleyen \u015feyin ne oldu\u011funu biliyor musun? Resmi cevap: &#8220;\u00d6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck, e\u015fitlik, karde\u015flik.&#8221; Ger\u00e7ek cevap: Ekmek yoktu. Paris&#8217;te halk a\u00e7 kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Marie Antoinette&#8217;in &#8220;ekmek yoksa pasta yesinler&#8221; dedi\u011fi rivayet edilir \u2014 bu s\u00f6z muhtemelen uydurulmu\u015ftur, ama o kadar g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc bir \u015feydir ki tarih ona sahip \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc o s\u00f6z\u00fcn i\u00e7inde b\u00fct\u00fcn bir s\u0131n\u0131f k\u00f6rl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc vard\u0131r. Giyotin d\u00f6nd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde, as\u0131l hesap ekmek hesab\u0131yd\u0131.<\/p>\n<p>T\u00fcrkiye&#8217;de ekmekle ili\u015fkimiz bamba\u015fka bir \u015feydir. Burada ekmek kutsal bir nesnedir \u2014 yerden d\u00fc\u015feni kald\u0131r\u0131rs\u0131n, g\u00f6zlerine s\u00fcrersin, al\u0131na g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcrs\u00fcn. Bu hareketi yapan ya\u015fl\u0131 elleri g\u00f6rd\u00fcm ben. O ellerde sadece inan\u00e7 de\u011fil, k\u0131tl\u0131k haf\u0131zas\u0131 vard\u0131r. Sava\u015f y\u0131llar\u0131n\u0131n, 40&#8217;lar\u0131n, 50&#8217;lerin. Ekme\u011fin olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 g\u00fcnlerin haf\u0131zas\u0131 bedende kal\u0131r ve nesillere ge\u00e7er. Benim annem h\u00e2l\u00e2 ekmek israf etmekten i\u00e7i s\u0131zlayarak ka\u00e7\u0131n\u0131r. Ben ona &#8220;anne, bu art\u0131k bir dini kural de\u011fil&#8221; desem de bir \u015fey anlatamam \u2014 \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc o bilgi zihinsel de\u011fil, kemik haf\u0131zas\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p><strong>G\u00f6\u00e7 hikayelerinde ekmek her zaman vard\u0131r.<\/strong> Almanya&#8217;ya giden ilk i\u015f\u00e7i ku\u015fa\u011f\u0131 bavullar\u0131na ne koydu biliyor musun? \u00c7ay, t\u00fct\u00fcn, biraz para \u2014 ve baz\u0131lar\u0131 ince ince dilimlenmi\u015f kurutulmu\u015f ekmek. Yolculuk uzundur, bilinmezi b\u00fcy\u00fckt\u00fcr ama mide tan\u0131d\u0131k bir \u015fey ister. Almanya&#8217;da a\u00e7\u0131k bir pazar alanda biri sana &#8220;t\u00fcrkisches Brot&#8221; (T\u00fcrk ekme\u011fi) uzat\u0131rsa ve sen onu ilk koklad\u0131\u011f\u0131nda g\u00f6zlerin dolarsa \u2014 o duygu a\u00e7\u0131klanamaz. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc ekmek koku de\u011fil, yerdir. Yurt de\u011fil, yer.<\/p>\n<p>\u015eimdi gelelim bug\u00fcne. Bug\u00fcn ekme\u011fin etraf\u0131nda d\u00f6nen tart\u0131\u015fmalar \u015fa\u015f\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131 bir hal ald\u0131:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Glutensiz ekmek mi, yoksa tam bu\u011fday m\u0131?<\/li>\n<li>Ek\u015fi maya m\u0131, end\u00fcstriyel maya m\u0131?<\/li>\n<li>Sourdough i\u00e7in 48 saat bekleme mi, yoksa h\u0131zl\u0131 pratik tarif mi?<\/li>\n<li>Artisan m\u0131, fabrika m\u0131?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Bu tart\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n tamam\u0131, ekme\u011fin etraf\u0131nda d\u00f6n\u00fcyor olmas\u0131 g\u00fczel bir \u015fey asl\u0131nda. Yani h\u00e2l\u00e2 konu\u015fuluyoruz. (Ama bu tart\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 be\u015f y\u0131ld\u0131zl\u0131 restoran\u0131n men\u00fcs\u00fcnde &#8220;brioche&#8221; yaz\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 okurken yapan biri ile teyzesinin ta\u015f f\u0131r\u0131n\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131kan k\u00f6y ekme\u011fini getirip sofraya koyan biri aras\u0131ndaki mesafeyi de g\u00f6z ard\u0131 etmemek laz\u0131m. Ekmek e\u015fittir demez hi\u00e7bir zaman.)<\/p>\n<p><strong>Ek\u015fi maya meselesine ayr\u0131ca de\u011finmek istiyorum<\/strong>, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc bu bana derin geliyor. Ek\u015fi mayan\u0131n i\u00e7inde canl\u0131 organizmalar var \u2014 bakteriler ve mayalar. Y\u00fczy\u0131llarca ayn\u0131 hamurdan al\u0131nan bir par\u00e7a bir sonraki ekme\u011fe aktar\u0131l\u0131r. Baz\u0131 f\u0131r\u0131nc\u0131lar ellerindeki mayan\u0131n y\u00fcz y\u0131ll\u0131k oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yler. Yani sen o ekme\u011fi yerken, i\u00e7inde bir as\u0131rl\u0131k ya\u015fam var. Bunu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcnce benim kalemim de biraz titriyor a\u00e7\u0131k\u00e7as\u0131.<\/p>\n<p>Ekmek \u00e7izemezsin, m\u00fczeye koyamazs\u0131n. Ama o, bence insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck ortak sanat eseridir. Her k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn \u015fekli farkl\u0131d\u0131r: Hint chapati&#8217;si, Etiyopya injera&#8217;s\u0131, Meksika tortillas\u0131, Frans\u0131z baguette&#8217;i, Anadolu lava\u015f\u0131. Hepsi ayn\u0131 soruya farkl\u0131 cevaplard\u0131r: <em>Bu gece ne yiyece\u011fiz?<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Ve o soru, insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n en eski sorusudur. Felsefeden \u00f6nce, sanattan \u00f6nce, siyasetten \u00f6nce \u2014 o soru vard\u0131. Ve cevab\u0131 hep basit, hep dokunulur, hep elle tutulur oldu.<\/p>\n<p>Ekme\u011fin i\u00e7inde ne var? Un, su, tuz, maya. Ve bunlar\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra: on iki bin y\u0131l, birka\u00e7 devrim, say\u0131s\u0131z g\u00f6\u00e7 hikayesi, bir b\u00fcy\u00fckannenin elleri, bir \u00e7ocu\u011fun ilk doygunluk hissi ve insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n en sade, en d\u00fcr\u00fcst c\u00fcmlesi.<\/p>\n<p><em>Buyur, ye.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Hadi bakay\u0131m, \u015fimdi usulca da\u011f\u0131l\u0131n ve m\u00fcmk\u00fcnse m\u0131sm\u0131l olun.<br \/><strong>Demirhan.<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Sana bir \u015fey soraca\u011f\u0131m ve d\u00fcr\u00fcst cevap ver: Son ne zaman elinde tuttu\u011fun ekme\u011fe ger\u00e7ekten bakt\u0131n? Sadece &#8220;ac\u0131km\u0131\u015f\u0131m, yiyeyim&#8221; modunda de\u011fil \u2014 duraksay\u0131p, o kabu\u011fun rengine, o k\u0131r\u0131nt\u0131n\u0131n dokusuna, o [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[47],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2214","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-gastronomi"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2214","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2214"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2214\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2214"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2214"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2214"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}