{"id":2145,"date":"2026-07-14T07:03:20","date_gmt":"2026-07-14T05:03:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/2026\/07\/14\/ekmegin-icindeki-sinif-savasi-kim-ne-yer-2\/"},"modified":"2026-07-14T07:03:20","modified_gmt":"2026-07-14T05:03:20","slug":"ekmegin-icindeki-sinif-savasi-kim-ne-yer-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/2026\/07\/14\/ekmegin-icindeki-sinif-savasi-kim-ne-yer-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Ekme\u011fin \u0130\u00e7indeki S\u0131n\u0131f Sava\u015f\u0131: Kim Ne Yer?"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/images.pexels.com\/photos\/6195\/bread-food-baking-homemade.jpg?auto=compress&#038;cs=tinysrgb&#038;fit=crop&#038;h=627&#038;w=1200\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;\"><\/p>\n<p>\u015eunu hi\u00e7 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcn m\u00fc: ayn\u0131 \u015fehirde ya\u015fayan iki insan, ayn\u0131 sabah, ayn\u0131 saatte kahvalt\u0131 yap\u0131yor \u2014 biri avokadolu ekme\u011fini Instagram&#8217;a y\u00fcklerken, di\u011feri bayat somunu \u00e7ay\u0131na band\u0131r\u0131yor. \u0130kisi de &#8220;kahvalt\u0131&#8221; yap\u0131yor. \u0130kisi de tok. Ama sofralar\u0131 aras\u0131ndaki mesafe, bazen iki \u00fclke aras\u0131ndaki kadar uzak.<\/p>\n<p>Yemek masum bir \u015fey de\u011fildir. Hi\u00e7 olmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. <strong>Sofra, siyasetin en eski ve en d\u00fcr\u00fcst aynas\u0131d\u0131r.<\/strong> Parlamentolarda yalan s\u00f6ylenebilir, se\u00e7im meydanlar\u0131nda palavra at\u0131labilir \u2014 ama bir insan\u0131n g\u00fcnde ka\u00e7 \u00f6\u011f\u00fcn yedi\u011fine, ne yedi\u011fine ve kimin masas\u0131nda yedi\u011fine bak\u0131nca, o toplum hakk\u0131nda b\u00fct\u00fcn ger\u00e7e\u011fi g\u00f6r\u00fcrs\u00fcn. Belgeye gerek yok, r\u00f6portaja gerek yok. Sadece mutfa\u011fa bak.<\/p>\n<p>Ben bunu \u00e7izerken de hissediyorum. Bir portreyi yaparken o insan\u0131n y\u00fcz\u00fcnden \u00f6nce y\u00fck\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6r\u00fcr\u00fcm derim ya \u2014 ayn\u0131 \u015fey yemek i\u00e7in de ge\u00e7erli. Bir taba\u011f\u0131n i\u00e7inde sadece malzeme g\u00f6rm\u00fcyorum; orada bir hikaye var, bir \u00f6m\u00fcr var, bazen bir k\u0131rg\u0131nl\u0131k bile var. (Annemin zeytinya\u011fl\u0131 fasulyesini d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmde h\u00e2l\u00e2 hafif bir \u015fey s\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131yor g\u00f6\u011fs\u00fcmde \u2014 bu \u015fimdi ne demek, \u00e7\u00f6zmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015fm\u0131yorum bile.)<\/p>\n<p><strong>Tarihin her d\u00f6neminde zenginlerin sofras\u0131 ile yoksulun sofras\u0131 aras\u0131nda net bir hat vard\u0131.<\/strong> Antik Roma&#8217;da plebler ucuz dar\u0131 lapas\u0131 yerken, patrisyenler flamingo dili ve deniz kirpisi yiyordu. Osmanl\u0131 saray mutfa\u011f\u0131nda y\u00fczlerce a\u015f\u00e7\u0131, y\u00fczlerce \u00e7e\u015fit yemek haz\u0131rlarken, Anadolu k\u00f6yl\u00fcs\u00fc bulgurunu ya\u011fs\u0131z pi\u015firiyordu. Bu sadece &#8220;zengin daha iyi yer&#8221; meselesi de\u011fil \u2014 bu, kimin eme\u011finin kimin karn\u0131na girdi\u011finin meselesi.<\/p>\n<p>Peki ya bug\u00fcn? De\u011fi\u015fti mi? Bir bakal\u0131m:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Organik pazar al\u0131\u015fveri\u015fi<\/strong> \u2014 Hafta sonu sabah\u0131, bez torbayla, g\u00fcne\u015f g\u00f6zl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcyle. Domates tanesi be\u015f lira. &#8220;Ama kimyasals\u0131z, de\u011fer.&#8221; (De\u011fer tabii ki. Ama o de\u011fere kimin eri\u015fimi var?)<\/li>\n<li><strong>Haz\u0131r g\u0131da ve market markas\u0131 \u00fcr\u00fcnler<\/strong> \u2014 \u00dc\u00e7 vardiya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan, eve gelince iki \u00e7ocu\u011fu bekleyen biri i\u00e7in &#8220;sa\u011fl\u0131kl\u0131 beslen&#8221; tavsiyesi havada as\u0131l\u0131 kal\u0131r. O insan i\u00e7in h\u0131z, \u00f6nce gelir. Su\u00e7lamak kolay, anlamak zor.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Restoran k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc<\/strong> \u2014 &#8220;Deneyim&#8221; satan restoranlar \u00e7o\u011fald\u0131. Tabakta iki lokmal\u0131k bir \u015fey, b\u00fcy\u00fck bir beyaz zeminde sanatsal sunumla geliyor. Kimin i\u00e7in? Kim \u00f6deyebilir? Kim orada kendini rahat hisseder?<\/li>\n<li><strong>Trend diyetler<\/strong> \u2014 Ketojenik, vegan, glutensiz&#8230; Bunlar\u0131n hepsi bir tercih meselesi gibi sunuluyor. Oysa pahal\u0131 tohumlar\u0131, \u00f6zel unlar\u0131, ithal kuruyemi\u015fleri kar\u015f\u0131layabilmek ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na bir <strong>s\u0131n\u0131f ayr\u0131cal\u0131\u011f\u0131<\/strong>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Gastronomi d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n tuhaf bir \u00e7eli\u015fkisi var: En \u00e7ok &#8220;geleneksel&#8221;, &#8220;otantik&#8221;, &#8220;k\u00f6y usul\u00fc&#8221; diye pazarlanan \u015feyler, tam da o k\u00f6yde ya\u015fayanlar\u0131n art\u0131k pek yiyemedi\u011fi \u015feyler oluyor. Ege&#8217;nin zeytinya\u011fl\u0131 otlar\u0131, do\u011funun kuzu eti, Karadeniz&#8217;in kuru fasulyesi \u2014 bunlar \u015fehirli orta s\u0131n\u0131f\u0131n &#8220;nostalji turizmi&#8221; haline geldi. K\u00f6yl\u00fc \u00e7ocuklar\u0131 \u015fehre g\u00f6\u00e7 etti, k\u00f6yde kalan ya\u015fl\u0131lar o yemekleri yapacak hali kalmad\u0131, ama o yemekler &#8220;butik otel kahvalt\u0131s\u0131&#8221; olarak geri d\u00f6nd\u00fc. (\u0130roni mi, h\u00fcz\u00fcn m\u00fc, ikisi birden mi \u2014 karar ver.)<\/p>\n<p>Almanya&#8217;da ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131m y\u0131llarda da benzer \u015feyleri g\u00f6rd\u00fcm. T\u00fcrk g\u00f6\u00e7meninin \u00e7ocu\u011fu D\u00f6ner Kebap yiyor diye a\u015fa\u011f\u0131lan\u0131rd\u0131 okulda \u2014 \u015fimdi ayn\u0131 D\u00f6ner, &#8220;gourmet street food&#8221; olarak Berliner&#8217;lar\u0131n favorisi. Bir nesil \u00f6nce a\u015fa\u011f\u0131lanan \u015fey, bir nesil sonra hipster kafenin men\u00fcs\u00fcne girdi. <strong>Yemek bile siyasi bir nesneye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor zamanla.<\/strong> Kim pi\u015firiyor, kim sat\u0131yor, kim &#8220;ke\u015ffediyor&#8221; \u2014 bunlar\u0131n hepsi g\u00fc\u00e7 ili\u015fkilerinin par\u00e7as\u0131.<\/p>\n<p>Ve i\u015fte burada gastronomi, felsefenin k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131na dayan\u0131yor. &#8220;Ne yiyorsun?&#8221; sorusu asl\u0131nda &#8220;Kimsin?&#8221; sorusunun ba\u015fka bir bi\u00e7imi. Bourdieu bunu y\u0131llar \u00f6nce yazm\u0131\u015ft\u0131 \u2014 be\u011feniler, tercihler, sofra al\u0131\u015fkanl\u0131klar\u0131 rastgele de\u011fil; sosyal miras taraf\u0131ndan \u015fekillendiriliyor. Yani sen &#8220;\u00f6zg\u00fcrce&#8221; se\u00e7ti\u011fini sand\u0131\u011f\u0131n o yeme\u011fi, asl\u0131nda s\u0131n\u0131f\u0131n, k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn, ekonomik konumun senin i\u00e7in se\u00e7mi\u015f \u00e7oktan.<\/p>\n<p>Bu seni kaderci yapmak zorunda de\u011fil. Tam tersine \u2014 bunu g\u00f6rmek, bir t\u00fcr \u00f6zg\u00fcrl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131 olabilir. <strong>Sofradaki adaletsizli\u011fi g\u00f6rmek, onu de\u011fi\u015ftirmenin ilk ad\u0131m\u0131.<\/strong> Kom\u015funun \u00e7ocu\u011funun ne yedi\u011fini bilmek, &#8220;benim taba\u011f\u0131m doluysa her \u015fey yolunda&#8221; konforundan \u00e7\u0131kmakt\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>Ben bir portreci olarak insanlar\u0131n y\u00fczlerini \u00e7izerim. Ama her y\u00fcz\u00fcn arkas\u0131nda bir \u00f6\u011f\u00fcn vard\u0131r \u2014 ya dolu, ya eksik, ya h\u0131zl\u0131 yutulmu\u015f, ya da saatlerce haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f ama yaln\u0131z yenilmi\u015f. Kalemim o ayr\u0131nt\u0131y\u0131 da kaydetmek ister bazen. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc a\u00e7 bir insan ile tok bir insan, ayn\u0131 \u015fekilde bakmaz d\u00fcnyaya. Ve ben bakan g\u00f6zleri \u00e7izerim.<\/p>\n<p>Ekmek, insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n en eski ortakl\u0131\u011f\u0131d\u0131r. Her k\u00fclt\u00fcrde, her co\u011frafyada, her d\u00f6nemde bir ekmek vard\u0131r. Ama o ekme\u011fi kimin pi\u015firdi\u011fi, kimin yedi\u011fi, kimin payla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u2014 i\u015fte orada ortakl\u0131k biter, tarih ba\u015flar.<\/p>\n<p>Hadi bakay\u0131m, \u015fimdi usulca da\u011f\u0131l\u0131n ve m\u00fcmk\u00fcnse m\u0131sm\u0131l olun.<br \/><em>Demirhan.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u015eunu hi\u00e7 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcn m\u00fc: ayn\u0131 \u015fehirde ya\u015fayan iki insan, ayn\u0131 sabah, ayn\u0131 saatte kahvalt\u0131 yap\u0131yor \u2014 biri avokadolu ekme\u011fini Instagram&#8217;a y\u00fcklerken, di\u011feri bayat somunu \u00e7ay\u0131na band\u0131r\u0131yor. \u0130kisi de &#8220;kahvalt\u0131&#8221; yap\u0131yor. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[47],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2145","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-gastronomi"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2145","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2145"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2145\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2145"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2145"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2145"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}