![](\"https:\/\/images.pexels.com\/photos\/11033943\/pexels-photo-11033943.jpeg?auto=compress&cs=tinysrgb&fit=crop&h=627&w=1200\")
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Sana \u015funu soray\u0131m: Son yedi\u011fin ac\u0131l\u0131 yeme\u011fin ard\u0131ndan neden a\u011fz\u0131n yand\u0131? Ger\u00e7ekten yand\u0131 m\u0131? Yoksa beynin sana bir numara m\u0131 att\u0131?<\/p>\n
Cevab\u0131 sana bir kimya dersinde de\u011fil, bir Meksika pazar\u0131nda, 1400’lerin sonlar\u0131nda, bir \u0130spanyol ka\u015fifin “Bu \u015feyin ad\u0131 ne?” diye sordu\u011fu anda vereyim. Ac\u0131 biber \u2014 yani Capsicum<\/strong> cinsinin o k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131, ye\u015fil, sar\u0131, turuncu, kahverengi, siyah ve “neden bu kadar renk var ya” diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn b\u00fct\u00fcn o meyveler \u2014 asl\u0131nda sizi \u0131s\u0131r\u0131rlar. Ama di\u015fleri yoktur. Bu onlar\u0131 daha tehlikeli k\u0131lar.<\/p>\n \u0130\u015fin ilgin\u00e7 taraf\u0131 \u015fu: ac\u0131 biberin i\u00e7indeki capsaicin<\/strong> maddesi kimyasal olarak hi\u00e7bir \u015feyi yakmaz. A\u011fz\u0131nda ger\u00e7ek bir alev yoktur. Capsaicin, dilindeki ve bo\u011faz\u0131ndaki TRPV1 adl\u0131 resept\u00f6rlere yap\u0131\u015f\u0131r \u2014 bunlar normalde s\u0131cakl\u0131k ve fiziksel hasar alg\u0131layan sinir u\u00e7lar\u0131d\u0131r. Ve capsaicin bu resept\u00f6rlere \u015funu f\u0131s\u0131ldar: “Arkada\u015f, yan\u0131yorsun.” Resept\u00f6r inan\u0131r. Beyin inan\u0131r. Sen inan\u0131rs\u0131n. S\u00fct i\u00e7ersin.<\/p>\n Milyonlarca y\u0131ll\u0131k bir aldatmaca bu. Ve i\u015fe yar\u0131yor.<\/p>\n Neden biber kendini yakt\u0131rd\u0131 ki?<\/strong><\/p>\n Bunu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015f m\u00fcyd\u00fcn hi\u00e7? Bir meyve neden kendi tohumlar\u0131n\u0131 yiyecek olan hayvan\u0131 cayd\u0131rmak i\u00e7in bu kadar u\u011fra\u015fs\u0131n? Cevap \u015fu: memeliler ac\u0131y\u0131 sezer, ku\u015flar sezmez. Ku\u015flar\u0131n sindirim sistemi biberin tohumlar\u0131na zarar vermez; tohumlar d\u0131\u015fk\u0131yla birlikte uzak noktalara ta\u015f\u0131n\u0131r. Memeli yer, a\u011fz\u0131 yanar, bir daha denemez. Ku\u015f yer, hi\u00e7bir \u015fey hissetmez, u\u00e7ar, t\u00fcm y\u00f6ne tohum sa\u00e7ar.<\/p>\n Capsaicin, do\u011fan\u0131n buldu\u011fu en zekice da\u011f\u0131t\u0131m stratejilerinden biridir. (Bir pazarlama dan\u0131\u015fman\u0131 bunu “hedef kitle odakl\u0131 yay\u0131lma stratejisi” diye adland\u0131r\u0131rd\u0131 ve bunun i\u00e7in bir s\u00fcr\u00fc para isterdi. Biber \u00fccretsiz yapt\u0131.)<\/p>\n \u0130nsanl\u0131k bu yan\u0131lsamaya ne zaman a\u015f\u0131k oldu?<\/strong><\/p>\n Meksika ve Orta Amerika’da ac\u0131 biber kullan\u0131m\u0131n\u0131n yakla\u015f\u0131k 7.500 y\u0131l \u00f6ncesine<\/strong> dayand\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcl\u00fcyor. Aztekler ve Mayalar i\u00e7in biber sadece bir baharat de\u011fildi; ayn\u0131 zamanda para birimi, ila\u00e7 ve rit\u00fcel nesnesiydi. Bir Aztek \u00e7ocu\u011funu cezaland\u0131rmak i\u00e7in onu biber duman\u0131n\u0131n \u00fczerinde tutarlard\u0131. (Modern ebeveynlik kitaplar\u0131 bunu \u00f6nermez. Ben de \u00f6nermiyorum. Ama tarihi de silemeyiz.)<\/p>\n 1493’te Kristof Kolomb’un gemicilerinden Diego \u00c1lvarez Chanca, bu meyveyi Avrupa’ya tan\u0131tan ilk ki\u015fi oldu. “Bunlar biberden \u00e7ok daha keskindir” diye yazd\u0131 raporunda. Portekiz t\u00fcccarlar\u0131 k\u0131sa s\u00fcrede biberi Afrika, Hindistan ve G\u00fcneydo\u011fu Asya’ya ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131. Ve i\u015fte burada muazzam bir ironi sahnesi ba\u015flad\u0131:<\/p>\n Bug\u00fcn biz Hint mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131, Kore mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131, Etiyopya mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131, Tayland mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131 hatta T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fczde akl\u0131m\u0131za gelen o yak\u0131c\u0131, derin, karakteristik ac\u0131l\u0131k \u2014 bunlar\u0131n hi\u00e7biri “kadim” de\u011fil. Hepsinin biberi tan\u0131mas\u0131 en fazla 500 y\u0131l \u00f6ncesine dayan\u0131yor. Kore’nin me\u015fhur kimchisi bibersiz yaz\u0131l\u0131yor olsayd\u0131 ne olurdu? Hindistan’\u0131n k\u00f6risi? G\u00fcney Anadolu’nun ac\u0131 ezmeleri?<\/p>\n 500 y\u0131lda bir k\u0131tan\u0131n damak tad\u0131n\u0131 de\u011fi\u015ftirmek… buna ne denir bilmiyorum. Devrim mi, i\u015fgal mi, a\u015fk m\u0131? Hepsinden biraz.<\/p>\n Capsaicin bug\u00fcn ne i\u015fe yar\u0131yor?<\/strong><\/p>\n Sadece ac\u0131 \u00e7ektirmiyor elbette. Ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131lar capsaicinin \u015fu alanlarda kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ya da \u00fczerinde \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 belgeliyor:<\/p>\n Scoville: Ac\u0131y\u0131 \u00f6l\u00e7en adam<\/strong><\/p>\n 1912’de Wilbur Scoville adl\u0131 bir eczac\u0131, ac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00f6l\u00e7mek i\u00e7in bir y\u00f6ntem geli\u015ftirdi. Scoville Is\u0131 Birimi (SHU)<\/strong> olarak bilinen bu \u00f6l\u00e7ek, h\u00e2l\u00e2 kullan\u0131l\u0131yor. Dolmal\u0131k biber s\u0131f\u0131r SHU. Jalapeno 2.500-8.000 aras\u0131. Habanero 100.000-350.000. Carolina Reaper adl\u0131 canavar\u0131n ortalamas\u0131 ise 1.6 milyon SHU. (Bunu yiyen insanlar var. \u0130nternette videolar\u0131 var. \u0130zleme. Ya da izle, karar senin.)<\/p>\n Scoville’in y\u00f6ntemi ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7ta \u015fa\u015f\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131 derecede insansald\u0131: tad\u0131mc\u0131lara biberin suland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f \u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc verdiler, “art\u0131k hissetmiyorum” deyene kadar suland\u0131rmaya devam ettiler. Bug\u00fcn bu i\u015f kromatografi cihazlar\u0131yla yap\u0131l\u0131yor ama Scoville’in ad\u0131 kald\u0131. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc \u00f6yle \u015feyler vard\u0131r, aletler de\u011fi\u015fir \u2014 \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcm\u00fcn ruhu de\u011fi\u015fmez.<\/p>\n Demirhan bunu farkl\u0131 bir \u015fey i\u00e7in de s\u00f6ylemi\u015f olabilir. Ama \u015fimdilik biber konusunda ge\u00e7erli.<\/p>\n D\u00fcnya genelinde bug\u00fcn 50.000’den fazla biber \u00e7e\u015fidi<\/strong> oldu\u011fu tahmin ediliyor. Bunlar\u0131n bir k\u0131sm\u0131 tatland\u0131rmak i\u00e7in, bir k\u0131sm\u0131 renk vermek i\u00e7in, bir k\u0131sm\u0131 saf ego tatmini i\u00e7in yeti\u015ftiriliyor. “Ben daha ac\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 yedim” diyebilmek i\u00e7in kilometrelerce yol gidip \u00f6zel biber satan d\u00fckk\u00e2nlara giren insanlar\u0131 tan\u0131yorum. Onlar\u0131 yarg\u0131lam\u0131yorum. Ac\u0131 aray\u0131\u015f\u0131 da bir t\u00fcr varolu\u015f sorusudur sonu\u00e7ta \u2014 nereye kadar dayanabilirim, s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131m nerede?<\/p>\n Capsaicin sadece bir bitki molek\u00fcl\u00fc de\u011fil. Hem bir aldatmaca hem bir ila\u00e7 hem bir para birimi hem bir silah hem de bir mutfak devrimi. Ve bunlar\u0131n hepsini 500 y\u0131ldan k\u0131sa s\u00fcrede ba\u015fard\u0131.<\/p>\n Ben portreyi \u00e7izerken \u00f6nce insan\u0131n y\u00fck\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6r\u00fcr\u00fcm dedim ya \u2014 biberin y\u00fck\u00fcne bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131mda \u015funu g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum: milyarlarca insan\u0131n sofras\u0131na girmi\u015f, a\u011f\u0131zlar\u0131n\u0131 yakm\u0131\u015f, g\u00f6zlerini ya\u015fartm\u0131\u015f ve yine de geri \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir misafir. En sad\u0131k misafir bu olsa gerek.<\/p>\n Hadi bakay\u0131m, \u015fimdi usulca da\u011f\u0131l\u0131n ve m\u00fcmk\u00fcnse m\u0131sm\u0131l olun. Sana \u015funu soray\u0131m: Son yedi\u011fin ac\u0131l\u0131 yeme\u011fin ard\u0131ndan neden a\u011fz\u0131n yand\u0131? Ger\u00e7ekten yand\u0131 m\u0131? Yoksa beynin sana bir numara m\u0131 att\u0131? Cevab\u0131 sana bir kimya dersinde de\u011fil, bir Meksika pazar\u0131nda, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[47],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2105","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-gastronomi"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2105","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2105"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2105\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2105"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2105"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2105"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}\n
Demirhan.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"