{"id":2088,"date":"2026-06-20T13:01:32","date_gmt":"2026-06-20T11:01:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/2026\/06\/20\/unutulan-bir-lezzet-eksi-mayali-ekmek-neden-kayboldu\/"},"modified":"2026-06-20T13:01:32","modified_gmt":"2026-06-20T11:01:32","slug":"unutulan-bir-lezzet-eksi-mayali-ekmek-neden-kayboldu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/2026\/06\/20\/unutulan-bir-lezzet-eksi-mayali-ekmek-neden-kayboldu\/","title":{"rendered":"Unutulan Bir Lezzet: Ek\u015fi Mayal\u0131 Ekmek Neden Kayboldu?"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/images.pexels.com\/photos\/36202913\/pexels-photo-36202913.jpeg?auto=compress&#038;cs=tinysrgb&#038;fit=crop&#038;h=627&#038;w=1200\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;\"><\/p>\n<p>Sana bir \u015fey soraca\u011f\u0131m ve cevab\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcne d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcne ver: <strong>Son yedi\u011fin ekmek ger\u00e7ekten ekmek miydi?<\/strong> Yani kabuk \u00e7\u0131t\u0131rdad\u0131 m\u0131? \u0130\u00e7i hafif ek\u015fimsi bir koku verdi mi? Dilimledi\u011finde b\u0131\u00e7ak diren\u00e7le mi ge\u00e7ti? Yoksa pamuk gibi, k\u00f6p\u00fck gibi, hi\u00e7bir \u015fey gibi miydi \u2014 a\u011fz\u0131nda erimeden \u00f6nce bile haf\u0131zanda eridi mi?<\/p>\n<p>Benim gibi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorsan, b\u00fcy\u00fck ihtimalle y\u0131llard\u0131r ekmek sand\u0131\u011f\u0131n \u015fey bir t\u00fcr unlu \u00fctopya yalan\u0131yd\u0131. Yumu\u015fak, beyaz, kokusuz, masum. Ve tamamen sahte.<\/p>\n<p>Ek\u015fi mayal\u0131 ekmek, insanl\u0131k tarihinin en eski ve en sab\u0131rl\u0131 tariflerinden biridir. <strong>Yakla\u015f\u0131k 6.000 y\u0131l \u00f6nce<\/strong>, b\u00fcy\u00fck ihtimalle M\u0131s\u0131r&#8217;da biri hamurunu yanl\u0131\u015fl\u0131kla bir g\u00fcn fazla b\u0131rakt\u0131 \u2014 ya da belki bilerek b\u0131rakt\u0131, kim bilir, o insan belki sadece tembeldi \u2014 ve sabah bakt\u0131 ki hamur kabar\u0131vermi\u015f. Havadaki yabani mayalar unu kolonize etmi\u015f, bakteriler i\u015fe koyulmu\u015f, kimya kendi ba\u015f\u0131na bir \u015feyler pi\u015firmi\u015f. Adam f\u0131r\u0131na verdi, yedi, &#8220;iyiymi\u015f&#8221; dedi ve insanl\u0131k birka\u00e7 bin y\u0131l boyunca b\u00f6yle devam etti.<\/p>\n<p>Sonra 20. y\u00fczy\u0131l geldi ve her \u015feyi mahvetti. (Her \u015feyi mahvetmek 20. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n en iyi bildi\u011fi \u015feydir, de\u011fil mi?)<\/p>\n<p><strong>End\u00fcstriyel maya 1860&#8217;larda Pasteur&#8217;\u00fcn \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131yla birlikte hayat\u0131m\u0131za girdi.<\/strong> H\u0131zl\u0131, g\u00fcvenilir, \u00f6ng\u00f6r\u00fclebilir. Hamuru 45 dakikada kabart\u0131yordu. Fabrikalar sevindi, f\u0131r\u0131nc\u0131lar sevindi, marketler sevindi. Ek\u015fi mayay\u0131 kimse \u00f6ld\u00fcrmedi \u2014 sadece kimse beklemek istemedi art\u0131k. Ek\u015fi maya sab\u0131r ister. 8 saat, 12 saat, bazen 24 saat. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fcn rutinine s\u0131\u011fd\u0131rmak zor. Ve i\u015fte b\u00f6yle, binlerce y\u0131ll\u0131k bir gelenek, birka\u00e7 on y\u0131lda raflardan silindi.<\/p>\n<p>Ama as\u0131l mesele h\u0131z de\u011fil. As\u0131l mesele \u015fu:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Ek\u015fi mayal\u0131 ekmek sindirimi kolayla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131r<\/strong> \u2014 uzun fermentasyon s\u00fcreci, gl\u00fcteni k\u0131smen par\u00e7alar, mideni zorlayan bile\u015fikleri azalt\u0131r.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Glisemik indeksi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fckt\u00fcr<\/strong> \u2014 yani kan \u015fekerini end\u00fcstriyel ekmek gibi bir roket gibi f\u0131rlatmaz.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Laktik asit bakterileri<\/strong> ekme\u011fin i\u00e7inde adeta bir ba\u011f\u0131rsak dostu ordusu kurar \u2014 probiyotik etki s\u0131n\u0131rl\u0131 da olsa ger\u00e7ektir.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Raf \u00f6mr\u00fc uzundur<\/strong> \u2014 asidik yap\u0131s\u0131 sayesinde k\u00fcflenmeye direnir, koruyucuya ihtiya\u00e7 duymaz.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Tad\u0131 vard\u0131r.<\/strong> Ger\u00e7ek bir tad\u0131. Ek\u015fimsi, neredeyse canl\u0131 bir tat. (Bu maddeler aras\u0131nda en \u00f6nemli olan\u0131 budur, geri kalan\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011fl\u0131k\u00e7\u0131lara b\u0131rak\u0131yorum.)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>\u015eimdi \u015funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn: B\u00fct\u00fcn bu \u00f6zellikler end\u00fcstriyel ekmekte yok. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc end\u00fcstriyel ekmek asl\u0131nda bir <em>g\u0131da de\u011fil, bir lojistik \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fcd\u00fcr.<\/em> \u00dcretilmesi kolay, ta\u015f\u0131nmas\u0131 kolay, sat\u0131lmas\u0131 kolay. \u0130nsan bedeni i\u00e7in mi optimize edilmi\u015f? Pek de\u011fil. Tedarik zinciri i\u00e7in mi? Kesinlikle.<\/p>\n<p>Anadolu&#8217;da ve Almanya&#8217;da (ikisi de benim ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131m ve bildi\u011fim d\u00fcnyalar) ek\u015fi mayal\u0131 ekmek k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc farkl\u0131 bi\u00e7imlerde hayatta kald\u0131. Almanya&#8217;da <strong>Sauerteig<\/strong> \u2014 yani ek\u015fi maya \u2014 hi\u00e7bir zaman tam olarak \u00f6lmedi. \u00c7avdar ekme\u011fi, Pumpernickel, koyu ve yo\u011fun Alman \u00e7avdar somunu; bunlar h\u00e2l\u00e2 Almanya&#8217;n\u0131n baz\u0131 b\u00f6lgelerinde g\u00fcndelik hayat\u0131n par\u00e7as\u0131. Bir Alman nine sana mayas\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6sterdi\u011finde, &#8220;bu 30 y\u0131ll\u0131k&#8221; diyebilir \u2014 ve ciddiye al\u0131rs\u0131n, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc ger\u00e7ekten 30 y\u0131ll\u0131kt\u0131r. Maya ya\u015f\u0131yor. Beslenip b\u00fcy\u00fct\u00fcl\u00fcyor. Neredeyse bir aile \u00fcyesi gibi.<\/p>\n<p>Anadolu&#8217;da ise k\u00f6ylerde sac ekme\u011fi, tand\u0131r ekme\u011fi gelene\u011fi i\u00e7inde ek\u015fi maya bir \u015fekilde ya\u015fad\u0131. Ama \u015fehirle\u015fmeyle birlikte o da kayboldu. \u0130stanbul&#8217;da, Ankara&#8217;da, \u0130zmir&#8217;de art\u0131k \u00e7o\u011fu insan ekmekhanesine &#8220;beyaz&#8221; der ve ba\u015fka bir \u015fey aramaz. <strong>Beyaz. Tek kelimeyle. Sanki ekmekten beklentisi renksizlik.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Pandemi d\u00f6neminde d\u00fcnya genelinde ilgin\u00e7 bir \u015fey oldu: \u0130nsanlar eve kapand\u0131 ve aniden ellerinde zaman vard\u0131. Binlerce ki\u015fi ek\u015fi maya yeti\u015ftirmeye ba\u015flad\u0131. Sosyal medya maya foto\u011fraflar\u0131yla doldu. (Evet, insanlar mayalar\u0131na isim koydu. &#8220;\u00c7orba&#8221;, &#8220;Ba\u015fak&#8221;, &#8220;Yuki&#8221;, &#8220;Chad Sourdough&#8221;. \u0130nsanl\u0131k garip bir t\u00fcrd\u00fcr.) Bu bir nostalji de\u011fildi tam olarak \u2014 hi\u00e7 ya\u015fanmam\u0131\u015f bir \u015feye duyulan \u00f6zlemdi. <strong>Sab\u0131rla yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, elle dokunulmu\u015f, ger\u00e7ekten var olan bir \u015feye duyulan \u00f6zlem.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Ben de \u00e7izerim bazen \u2014 bir portreyi tamamlamak saatler, bazen g\u00fcnler al\u0131r. Kimse bana &#8220;neden Photoshop kullanm\u0131yorsun, daha h\u0131zl\u0131 olmaz m\u0131yd\u0131?&#8221; demez art\u0131k. Ya da der de cevab\u0131 bilir: \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc el de\u011fi\u015fmez. Alet de\u011fi\u015fir, s\u00fcre\u00e7 de\u011fi\u015fir, ama elin o ka\u011f\u0131da b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131 a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131k, o iz \u2014 onu ba\u015fka hi\u00e7bir \u015fey veremez. Ek\u015fi mayal\u0131 ekmek de b\u00f6yle. F\u0131r\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde olan \u015fey, <strong>o uzun, sessiz, sab\u0131rl\u0131 fermentasyon<\/strong> \u2014 onu h\u0131zland\u0131r\u0131rs\u0131n, ama yerine ge\u00e7emezsin.<\/p>\n<p>E\u011fer bir g\u00fcn ek\u015fi mayal\u0131 ekmek yapmak istersen, ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7 \u00e7ok basittir:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>E\u015fit miktarda tam bu\u011fday unu ve su kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. (100 gram + 100 gram.)<\/li>\n<li>\u00dcst\u00fcn\u00fc \u00f6rt\u00fcp oda s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda b\u0131rak. 24 saat.<\/li>\n<li>Her g\u00fcn yar\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 at, yar\u0131s\u0131na tekrar un ve su ekle. Buna &#8220;besleme&#8221; denir.<\/li>\n<li>3-5 g\u00fcn i\u00e7inde kabarmaya, k\u00f6p\u00fcrmeye, ek\u015fi kokular vermeye ba\u015flar.<\/li>\n<li>O noktada mayan haz\u0131rd\u0131r. Art\u0131k ekmek yapabilirsin.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>Sab\u0131r ister. Birka\u00e7 g\u00fcn. Ama \u015funu s\u00f6yleyeyim: O mayay\u0131 ilk kez kabar\u0131rken g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde \u2014 ger\u00e7ekten, g\u00f6zle g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcr bi\u00e7imde canl\u0131yken \u2014 i\u00e7inde tuhaf bir \u015fey hissedeceksin. Bir gurur mu, bir \u015fa\u015fk\u0131nl\u0131k m\u0131, bilmiyorum. <strong>Sanki yoktan bir \u015fey yaratt\u0131n. Oysa sadece buldun \u2014 binlerce y\u0131ld\u0131r orada olan bir \u015feyi.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Ekmek her zaman b\u00f6yleydi. Biz de\u011fi\u015ftik.<\/p>\n<p>Hadi bakay\u0131m, \u015fimdi usulca da\u011f\u0131l\u0131n ve m\u00fcmk\u00fcnse m\u0131sm\u0131l olun.<br \/>Demirhan.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Sana bir \u015fey soraca\u011f\u0131m ve cevab\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcne d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcne ver: Son yedi\u011fin ekmek ger\u00e7ekten ekmek miydi? Yani kabuk \u00e7\u0131t\u0131rdad\u0131 m\u0131? \u0130\u00e7i hafif ek\u015fimsi bir koku verdi mi? Dilimledi\u011finde b\u0131\u00e7ak diren\u00e7le mi [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[47],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2088","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-gastronomi"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2088","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2088"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2088\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2088"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2088"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2088"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}