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Sana bir soru soraca\u011f\u0131m ve cevaplamak i\u00e7in acele etme: Son ne zaman ger\u00e7ekten ekmek yedin?<\/strong> Yani \u015f\u00f6yle \u2014 kabu\u011fu \u00e7at\u0131rdayan, i\u00e7i biraz ek\u015fimsi, a\u011fz\u0131nda da\u011f\u0131l\u0131rken sana bir \u015feyler f\u0131s\u0131ldayan t\u00fcrden. Yoksa hep o plastik torbalardaki, \u00fc\u00e7 g\u00fcnde k\u00fcflenen, her dilimi birbirinin kopyas\u0131 olan o \u015feyi mi yedin? (Ona da ekmek diyoruz, tamam, ama bu tart\u0131\u015fmay\u0131 ba\u015fka bir g\u00fcne b\u0131rakal\u0131m.)<\/p>\n Ek\u015fi maya meselesi benim i\u00e7in sadece bir tarif de\u011fil. Bir portreyi \u00e7izmeye ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131mda \u00f6nce o insan\u0131n y\u00fck\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6r\u00fcr\u00fcm, sonra y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc \u2014 ek\u015fi mayan\u0131n da \u00f6yle bir y\u00fck\u00fc var. Binlerce y\u0131ll\u0131k bir sab\u0131r y\u00fck\u00fc. Ve o y\u00fck\u00fc anlamadan ekme\u011fi anlamak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil.<\/p>\n Hik\u00e2ye \u015furadan ba\u015fl\u0131yor: Yakla\u015f\u0131k 6.000 y\u0131l \u00f6nce, Antik M\u0131s\u0131r’da<\/strong> biri \u2014 muhtemelen dikkatsiz, belki yorgun, belki sadece \u015fansl\u0131 \u2014 unla suyu kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131p unuttu. Hamur orada bekledi. Havadaki yabani mayalar ve bakteriler i\u00e7eri girdi, i\u015fe koyuldu, hamur kabar\u0131p ek\u015fidi. Adam geri d\u00f6nd\u00fc, bakt\u0131, “ne halt?” dedi ve muhtemelen yine de pi\u015firdi. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc o d\u00f6nemde israf l\u00fcks\u00fc yoktu. \u0130\u015fte o “ne halt?” an\u0131, insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck mutfak ke\u015fiflerinden birinin ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131yd\u0131.<\/p>\n M\u0131s\u0131rl\u0131lar bunu tesad\u00fcfen ke\u015ffettikten sonra bilin\u00e7li olarak geli\u015ftirdiler. Eski hamurdan yeni hamura bir par\u00e7a aktar\u0131yorlard\u0131 \u2014 adeta canl\u0131 bir \u015fey gibi besliyorlard\u0131 onu. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc \u00f6yleydi zaten. Ek\u015fi maya; un, su ve milyonlarca mikroorganizmadan olu\u015fan canl\u0131 bir ekosistemdir.<\/strong> Onu “k\u00fclt\u00fcr” diye adland\u0131r\u0131yoruz \u0130ngilizce’de \u2014 “starter culture.” Yani k\u00fclt\u00fcr. Medeniyet. Tesad\u00fcf de\u011fil bu kelime se\u00e7imi.<\/p>\n Romal\u0131lar bu mayay\u0131 M\u0131s\u0131r’dan ald\u0131, Avrupa’ya yayd\u0131. Orta \u00c7a\u011f’da her f\u0131r\u0131n\u0131n, her evin kendi mayas\u0131 vard\u0131 \u2014 nesilden nesile aktar\u0131lan, ismi olan, hatta ki\u015fili\u011fi oldu\u011funa inan\u0131lan mayalar. San Francisco’da h\u00e2l\u00e2 1800’lerden kalma “starter”larla ekmek yapan f\u0131r\u0131nc\u0131lar var. D\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn bunu: \u0130\u00e7 Sava\u015f d\u00f6neminde ba\u015flayan bir fermentasyon s\u00fcreci bug\u00fcn senin ekme\u011finin i\u00e7inde devam ediyor olabilir.<\/em> Tarihin bu kadar lezzetli olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kimse s\u00f6ylemedi bana.<\/p>\n Peki ne zaman her \u015fey bozuldu? 1800’lerin sonunda. End\u00fcstriyel maya icat edildi \u2014 Saccharomyces cerevisiae<\/em>, paketlenmi\u015f, h\u0131zl\u0131, g\u00fcvenilir, standart. Fabrikalar bu mayayla saatler i\u00e7inde ekmek \u00fcretmeye ba\u015flad\u0131. Ek\u015fi mayan\u0131n g\u00fcnler s\u00fcren dans\u0131, kimsenin zaman\u0131n\u0131n olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir \u00e7a\u011fda modas\u0131 ge\u00e7mi\u015f g\u00f6r\u00fcnd\u00fc. (Kapitalizm bir \u015feyi \u00e7ok iyi yapar: sab\u0131rs\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131 karl\u0131 hale getirir.)<\/p>\n Ama i\u015fte ilgin\u00e7 olan \u015fu: Ek\u015fi mayan\u0131n fark\u0131 sadece nostaljik de\u011fil, biyokimyasal.<\/strong> Uzun fermentasyon s\u00fcreci sayesinde \u015funlar olur:<\/p>\n Ben Almanya’da y\u0131llard\u0131r ya\u015f\u0131yorum ve burada ekmek k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na bir tez konusu. Almanlar ekme\u011fi ciddiye al\u0131r \u2014 UNESCO bile Alman ekmek k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc somut olmayan k\u00fclt\u00fcrel miras listesine ald\u0131 2014’te. Ama T\u00fcrkiye’ye d\u00f6nd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmde annemin yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 k\u00f6y ekme\u011fini yiyorum ve anl\u0131yorum ki co\u011frafi olarak \u00e7ok uzak olan iki k\u00fclt\u00fcr, ek\u015fi maya konusunda ayn\u0131 rit\u00fceli payla\u015f\u0131yor. Hamuru bekletmek. Zaman vermek. Acele etmemek. Sab\u0131r bir tarif de\u011fil, bir felsefedir.<\/strong><\/p>\n Evde ek\u015fi maya ba\u015flatmak istiyorsan \u2014 ve ba\u015flatmal\u0131s\u0131n, diyorum bunu kararl\u0131l\u0131kla \u2014 s\u00fcre\u00e7 \u015fudur: E\u015fit a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kta tam bu\u011fday unu ve suyu kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131rs\u0131n. Kavanoza koyars\u0131n. Her g\u00fcn ayn\u0131 saatte yar\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 at\u0131p yeni un ve su eklersin. D\u00f6rt ila yedi g\u00fcn sonra, sab\u0131rla beklersen, hamurun kabar\u0131p k\u00f6p\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6r\u00fcrs\u00fcn. \u0130\u015fte o an \u2014 o k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck balonlar patlad\u0131\u011f\u0131nda \u2014 binlerce y\u0131l \u00f6nce M\u0131s\u0131r’da ya\u015fanan o “ne halt?” an\u0131yla ba\u011flant\u0131 kuruyorsun.<\/em> Zaman mefhumu \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcl\u00fcyor biraz.<\/p>\n Bir mayan\u0131n karakteri bulundu\u011fu ortama g\u00f6re \u015fekillenir. Senin mutfa\u011f\u0131ndaki hava, elindeki un, kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131n suyun mineraller i\u00e7eri\u011fi \u2014 hepsi o mayan\u0131n kimli\u011fini belirler. \u0130ki ayr\u0131 \u015fehirde ayn\u0131 tarifle yap\u0131lan iki ek\u015fi maya hi\u00e7bir zaman ayn\u0131 olmaz.<\/strong> T\u0131pk\u0131 iki insan gibi. T\u0131pk\u0131 iki portrede ayn\u0131 y\u00fcz\u00fcn farkl\u0131 \u0131\u015f\u0131klarda farkl\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnmesi gibi. Alet de\u011fi\u015fir, el de\u011fi\u015fmez \u2014 ama burada el de de\u011fi\u015fir, ortam da de\u011fi\u015fir, ve maya bunlar\u0131n hepsini kaydeder.<\/p>\n Sana \u015funu s\u00f6yl\u00fcyorum: Ek\u015fi maya bir hobi de\u011fil, bir duru\u015f meselesi. “Ben zaman ay\u0131r\u0131r\u0131m, ben beklerim, ben bu canl\u0131 \u015feyi beslerim” demek \u2014 h\u0131z\u0131n tanr\u0131la\u015ft\u0131r\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir \u00e7a\u011fda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir isyan. Kavanozun kapa\u011f\u0131n\u0131 a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131nda gelen o keskin, derin, fermente koku, sana d\u00fcmd\u00fcz \u015funu s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor: baz\u0131 \u015feyler aceleye gelmez.<\/em><\/p>\n Ve ekmek pi\u015fti\u011finde, f\u0131r\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131kan o somun masada so\u011furken sab\u0131rs\u0131zlan\u0131yorsun tabii \u2014 dayanam\u0131yorsun, \u00e7ok erken kesiyorsun, i\u00e7i hamur gibi oluyor, hayal k\u0131r\u0131kl\u0131\u011f\u0131. (Bu deneyimi ya\u015famadan ek\u015fi maya anla\u015f\u0131lmaz, bu da s\u00fcrecin par\u00e7as\u0131.) Ama bir keresinde bekliyorsun. Tam so\u011fumu\u015f, i\u00e7i oturmu\u015f, kabu\u011fu donukla\u015fm\u0131\u015f bir somunu kesiyorsun ve o ses \u2014 o \u00e7\u0131t\u0131r<\/strong> \u2014 kula\u011f\u0131na geliyor.<\/p>\n \u0130\u015fte o ses, M\u0131s\u0131r’dan bug\u00fcne uzanan \u00e7izginin son noktas\u0131. Ve sen o noktadas\u0131n.<\/p>\n Hadi bakay\u0131m, \u015fimdi usulca da\u011f\u0131l\u0131n ve m\u00fcmk\u00fcnse m\u0131sm\u0131l olun. Sana bir soru soraca\u011f\u0131m ve cevaplamak i\u00e7in acele etme: Son ne zaman ger\u00e7ekten ekmek yedin? Yani \u015f\u00f6yle \u2014 kabu\u011fu \u00e7at\u0131rdayan, i\u00e7i biraz ek\u015fimsi, a\u011fz\u0131nda da\u011f\u0131l\u0131rken sana bir \u015feyler f\u0131s\u0131ldayan t\u00fcrden. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[47],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2065","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-gastronomi"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2065","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2065"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2065\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2065"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2065"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2065"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}\n
Demirhan.<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"