![](\"https:\/\/images.pexels.com\/photos\/35160053\/pexels-photo-35160053.jpeg?auto=compress&cs=tinysrgb&fit=crop&h=627&w=1200\")
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\u015eu soruyu hi\u00e7 sordun mu kendi kendine: \u0130lk yeme\u011fi kim pi\u015firdi?<\/strong> Yani tam olarak \u2014 hangi eli, hangi anda, k\u0131zarm\u0131\u015f bir \u015feyi a\u011fz\u0131na g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcp “be, bu b\u00f6yle daha iyi” dedi? Bir isim yok. Bir an\u0131 yok. Bir tarih yok. Ama o an, insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n d\u00f6n\u00fcm noktas\u0131d\u0131r. Belki de yaz\u0131dan, tekerden, demirden daha b\u00fcy\u00fck bir d\u00f6n\u00fcm noktas\u0131.<\/p>\n Bir d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn: Bir y\u0131ld\u0131r\u0131m d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f, orman yanm\u0131\u015f, bir hayvan kalm\u0131\u015f ortada. Yar\u0131 yanm\u0131\u015f, kokusu etrafa yay\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. A\u00e7l\u0131k var. Korku var. Ve bir el \u2014 b\u00fcy\u00fck ihtimalle merakl\u0131, b\u00fcy\u00fck ihtimalle \u00e7ok a\u00e7 \u2014 uzanm\u0131\u015f. \u0130\u015fte o el, fark\u0131nda olmadan insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n ilk \u015fefiydi. Michelin y\u0131ld\u0131z\u0131 yoktu, ama yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015fey b\u00fct\u00fcn mutfak tarihini kurdu.<\/p>\n Antropologlar bunu “ate\u015fin evcille\u015ftirilmesi” olarak tan\u0131mlar. G\u00fczel bir ifade. Sanki ate\u015f bir k\u00f6pek gibi terbiye edilmi\u015f, insan\u0131n yan\u0131nda oturmay\u0131 \u00f6\u011frenmi\u015f. Ama as\u0131l mesele \u015fu: Ate\u015f insan\u0131 da terbiye etti.<\/strong> Pi\u015fmi\u015f yiyecek daha kolay sindirilir, daha fazla kalori verir, daha az bakteri ta\u015f\u0131r. Beyin b\u00fcy\u00fcd\u00fc. Ba\u011f\u0131rsak k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcld\u00fc. \u00c7ene zay\u0131flad\u0131. Yani biz bug\u00fcn \u015fu kafay\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yabiliyorsak, bunun bir par\u00e7as\u0131 o ilk ate\u015fin etraf\u0131nda \u00e7\u00f6melmi\u015f atalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n sayesinde.<\/p>\n Harvard’l\u0131 biyolog Richard Wrangham, “Ate\u015f Bizi \u0130nsan Yapt\u0131” diye bir kitap yazd\u0131. (T\u00fcrk\u00e7e \u00e7evirisi var, ama ben sana do\u011frudan s\u00f6yleyeyim \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc kitap\u00e7\u0131da duran kitaplar\u0131n i\u00e7eri\u011fi \u00e7ok az ki\u015fiye ula\u015f\u0131yor.) Wrangham’\u0131n tezi basit ve \u015fok edici: Homo sapiens de\u011fil, ate\u015fi kullanan Homo erectus<\/strong> bu hikayenin kahraman\u0131d\u0131r. Yakla\u015f\u0131k 1,8 milyon y\u0131l \u00f6nce. Yani mutfak tarihi, yaz\u0131n\u0131n tarihinden 1,79 milyon y\u0131l daha eskidir.<\/p>\n Ama i\u015fte g\u00fczel soru burada ba\u015fl\u0131yor: Pi\u015firmek bir icat<\/em> m\u0131d\u0131r, yoksa bir ke\u015fif<\/em> midir? \u0130cat dersen \u2014 birileri bunu tasarlad\u0131, planlad\u0131, geli\u015ftirdi demek zorundas\u0131n. Ke\u015fif dersen \u2014 zaten oradad\u0131, sadece bulundu. Ben \u015fahsen ikisinin de aras\u0131nda bir \u015fey oldu\u011funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum. Bir kazad\u0131, ama kazay\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcp anlayan ak\u0131l vard\u0131.<\/strong> \u0130\u015fte o ak\u0131l \u2014 o ilk “hm, bunu bir daha yapay\u0131m” diyen d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnce \u2014 insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n ger\u00e7ek kurucu an\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n Peki ya baharat? O ba\u015fka bir hikaye. Tuzun bulunmas\u0131, biberin yay\u0131lmas\u0131, zerde\u00e7al\u0131n Hindistan’dan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p b\u00fct\u00fcn d\u00fcnyay\u0131 renklendirmesi… Bunlar kaza de\u011fil, ticarettir, g\u00f6\u00e7t\u00fcr, merakt\u0131r.<\/strong> Bir Arap t\u00fcccar, bir Venedikli gemici, bir Osmanl\u0131 mutfa\u011f\u0131nda kaynayan tencere \u2014 hepsi birbirine ba\u011fl\u0131. Yemek tarihi asl\u0131nda d\u00fcnya tarihinin en lezzetli \u00f6zetidir.<\/p>\n \u015eimdi sana bir liste vereyim. \u0130nsanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n mutfak tarihindeki ger\u00e7ek d\u00f6n\u00fcm noktalar\u0131 \u2014 benim g\u00f6z\u00fcmden:<\/p>\n \u015eimdi \u015funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn: Bu tarihsel s\u0131ralamada hi\u00e7bir “b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fef” ad\u0131 ge\u00e7medi. Escoffier yok, Brillat-Savarin yok, bug\u00fcn\u00fcn Michelin y\u0131ld\u0131zl\u0131 s\u00fcper \u015fefleri yok. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc mutfa\u011f\u0131n ger\u00e7ek kahramanlar\u0131 anonim<\/strong>. Ad\u0131n\u0131 bilmedi\u011fimiz bir kad\u0131n, \u00e7amur f\u0131r\u0131n\u0131nda bir \u015feyler denerken ekme\u011fi buldu. Bir \u00e7oban, yanl\u0131\u015fl\u0131kla \u0131s\u0131nan deri torbas\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde s\u00fct\u00fcn de\u011fi\u015fti\u011fini g\u00f6rd\u00fc ve peynir do\u011fdu. Bunlar\u0131n hi\u00e7birini kitaplara ge\u00e7iren olmad\u0131, ama hepsi insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n miras\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n Ben portreyi \u00e7izerken \u00f6nce o insan\u0131n y\u00fck\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6r\u00fcr\u00fcm, sonra y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc, demi\u015ftim bir yerde. Burada da ayn\u0131s\u0131 ge\u00e7erli: O ilk ate\u015fin etraf\u0131nda oturan insanlar\u0131n y\u00fczlerini bilmiyorum. Ama y\u00fcklerini biliyorum \u2014 a\u00e7l\u0131k, so\u011fuk, belirsizlik. Ve ellerini biliyorum \u2014 \u00e7atlak, is i\u00e7inde, ama merakl\u0131. O eller olmasayd\u0131 bug\u00fcn ben de sen de bu kadar iyi yemek yiyemezdik.<\/p>\n Gastronomi kelimesi Yunanca’dan gelir: gaster<\/em> (mide) ve nomos<\/em> (kural, d\u00fczen). Midenin d\u00fczeni. Ama ben buna inanm\u0131yorum tam olarak. Yemek mideyle de\u011fil, bellekle ilgilidir.<\/strong> Annenin yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00e7orba neden o kadar g\u00fczel? Midenin kural\u0131 de\u011fil, haf\u0131zan\u0131n a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131. O a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131k ta o ilk ate\u015fe kadar uzan\u0131yor \u2014 gen haf\u0131zas\u0131nda, k\u00fclt\u00fcr haf\u0131zas\u0131nda, dil haf\u0131zas\u0131nda.<\/p>\n Yani bir dahaki sefere bir \u015fey pi\u015firdi\u011finde \u2014 ister sabah yumurtas\u0131, ister saatlerce u\u011fra\u015f\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir yemek \u2014 bir saniye dur. O ate\u015fi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn. O eli d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn. 1,8 milyon y\u0131ll\u0131k bir prati\u011fin i\u00e7inde duruyorsun. Bu seni hem k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck hem b\u00fcy\u00fck hissettirecek. \u0130kisi de do\u011fru.<\/p>\n Hadi bakay\u0131m, \u015fimdi usulca da\u011f\u0131l\u0131n ve m\u00fcmk\u00fcnse m\u0131sm\u0131l olun. \u015eu soruyu hi\u00e7 sordun mu kendi kendine: \u0130lk yeme\u011fi kim pi\u015firdi? Yani tam olarak \u2014 hangi eli, hangi anda, k\u0131zarm\u0131\u015f bir \u015feyi a\u011fz\u0131na g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcp “be, bu b\u00f6yle daha iyi” dedi? […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[47],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1997","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-gastronomi"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1997","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1997"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1997\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1997"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1997"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1997"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}\n
Demirhan.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"