Hi\u00e7 a\u011flarken tencereye bakt\u0131n\u0131z m\u0131? Bakmad\u0131ysan\u0131z, hen\u00fcz ger\u00e7ek bir yemek pi\u015firmemi\u015fsiniz demektir. \u015eaka yapm\u0131yorum, ciddiyim. \u015eimdi bana “Demirhan Bey, biz buraya yemek tarifi okumaya geldik, senin melankolini \u00e7ekemeyiz” demeyin, o tencerenin kapa\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kapat\u0131r\u0131m, a\u00e7 kal\u0131rs\u0131n\u0131z. Mesele sadece kar\u0131n doyurmak olsayd\u0131, \u00f6n\u00fcn\u00fcze koyulan \u00fc\u00e7 kuru\u015fluk haz\u0131r mamalar\u0131 yer, k\u00f6\u015fenize \u00e7ekilirdiniz. Ama biz buraday\u0131z, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc o taba\u011f\u0131n i\u00e7inde bir ruh ar\u0131yoruz. Ve o ruh, inan olsun, o p\u0131r\u0131l p\u0131r\u0131l parlayan, milyarl\u0131k mutfak robotlar\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde de\u011fil, sizin o nas\u0131rl\u0131, yorgun ve bazen titreyen elinizin tuttu\u011fu b\u0131\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n ucunda sakl\u0131. Ne diyorduk her zaman? Alet de\u011fi\u015fir, el de\u011fi\u015fmez.<\/p>\n
Bug\u00fcn masaya o en demokratik, en kibirsiz, en “\u00f6teki”le\u015ftirilmi\u015f malzemeyi yat\u0131r\u0131yoruz: So\u011fan\u0131. Saray mutfa\u011f\u0131ndan tutun da da\u011f ba\u015f\u0131ndaki \u00e7oban\u0131n az\u0131\u011f\u0131na kadar her yere s\u0131zm\u0131\u015f, ama ad\u0131 ge\u00e7ti\u011finde herkesin burnunu b\u00fckt\u00fc\u011f\u00fc o gariban\u0131. Sosyete sofralar\u0131nda ad\u0131 “karamelize” edilerek kibarla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131lsa da, so\u011fan so\u011fand\u0131r karde\u015fim. Portre \u00e7izerken de b\u00f6yledir bu i\u015f. Bir insan\u0131n y\u00fcz\u00fcndeki k\u0131r\u0131\u015f\u0131kl\u0131klar\u0131 kapatmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rsan, o insan\u0131n hikayesini silersin. So\u011fan\u0131n da kabu\u011funu hunharca soyup f\u0131rlat\u0131rken asl\u0131nda onun tarihini, topra\u011f\u0131n alt\u0131nda ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi o karanl\u0131k ve sab\u0131rl\u0131 g\u00fcnleri \u00e7\u00f6pe atars\u0131n. (Evet, ben so\u011fan\u0131n tarihine de sayg\u0131 duyar\u0131m, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc o olmasa insanl\u0131k \u00e7oktan skorb\u00fct hastal\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan k\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131.)<\/p>\n
Gelelim \u015fu bizim mutfak robotu sevdal\u0131lar\u0131na. Teknolojiyi severim, yanl\u0131\u015f anla\u015f\u0131lmas\u0131n, i\u015f kolayla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131r. Ama so\u011fan\u0131 o mekanik b\u0131\u00e7aklar\u0131n aras\u0131na at\u0131p saniyeler i\u00e7inde bulama\u00e7 haline getirmek… \u0130\u015fte bu cinayettir. O alet so\u011fan\u0131 kesmez, onu ezer, suyunu \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131r, ruhunu \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcr. Ortaya \u00e7\u0131kan o ac\u0131 su, yeme\u011fin b\u00fct\u00fcn tad\u0131n\u0131 ka\u00e7\u0131r\u0131r. Oysa iyi bir \u015fef, ya da durun \u015fef demeyelim, eli ekmek tutan, hayattan nasibini alm\u0131\u015f herhangi bir insan bilir ki, b\u0131\u00e7ak so\u011fan\u0131n liflerine paralel gitmelidir. Onu ezmeden, usulca, incitmeden dilimleyeceksin. T\u0131pk\u0131 bir insan\u0131n kalbine dokunur gibi. Sert davran\u0131rsan can\u0131n\u0131 yakars\u0131n, o da senin g\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc yakar. Ger\u00e7i ne yaparsan yap a\u011flat\u0131r ama, en az\u0131ndan bu asil bir vedadan kaynaklanan bir g\u00f6zya\u015f\u0131 olur, i\u015fkenceden de\u011fil.<\/p>\n
Almanya\u2019da ge\u00e7irdi\u011fim y\u0131llarda dikkatimi \u00e7ekmi\u015fti; oradaki marketlerde her \u015fey o kadar nizami, o kadar steril ki. So\u011fanlar bile tornadan \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f gibi tek tip. (Bazen bak\u0131p ulan diyordum, bunlar\u0131n hi\u00e7 mi deliversi, hi\u00e7 mi yamuk olan\u0131 yok?) Bizim memlekette ise pazar tezgah\u0131nda her boydan, her \u015fekilden so\u011fan bulursun. Biri \u00e7\u00fcr\u00fckt\u00fcr, \u00f6b\u00fcr\u00fc c\u00fcc\u00fck vermi\u015ftir, di\u011feri ise yumruk kadard\u0131r. Hayat gibidir yani. M\u00fckemmel de\u011fildir ama sahicidir. Almanya’daki o steril kutulardan \u00e7\u0131kan so\u011fanlar\u0131 do\u011frarken kendimi bir laboratuvarda gibi hissederdim. Ama ne zaman ki o yamuk yumuk, topra\u011f\u0131 \u00fcst\u00fcnde kalm\u0131\u015f Anadolu so\u011fan\u0131n\u0131 elime alsam, burnuma \u00e7ocuklu\u011fumun o isli mutfaklar\u0131, annemin ocakta unuttu\u011fu o kuru fasulyenin kokusu gelirdi. Demek ki neymi\u015f? Haf\u0131za sadece kafada de\u011fil, burnun ucunda ve parmaklar\u0131n hassasiyetindeymi\u015f.<\/p>\n
Peki, bu mereti nas\u0131l do\u011fru d\u00fcr\u00fcst pi\u015firece\u011fiz? Madem buraya kadar okudun, sana birka\u00e7 alt\u0131n kural vereyim de elin aya\u011f\u0131n d\u00fczg\u00fcn bir i\u015f g\u00f6rs\u00fcn. Kulaktan dolma bilgilerle mutfa\u011fa girip ortal\u0131\u011f\u0131 sava\u015f alan\u0131na \u00e7eviren o “yeni nesil gurmelerden” olma diye yaz\u0131yorum bunlar\u0131:<\/p>\n
Ge\u00e7en g\u00fcn bizim mahallenin manav\u0131 Mustafa\u2019yla konu\u015fuyoruz. “Demirhan abi,” dedi, “art\u0131k kimse evde yemek yapm\u0131yor, herkes d\u0131\u015far\u0131dan s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor, so\u011fan sat\u0131\u015flar\u0131 d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc.” \u00dcz\u00fcld\u00fcm yeminle. Evde so\u011fan kokmayan bir evin bacas\u0131 t\u00fctm\u00fcyor demektir bana g\u00f6re. O koku, bir arada olman\u0131n, ayn\u0131 dertle dertlenmenin, ayn\u0131 tencereden beslenmenin kokusudur. \u015eimdi herkes kendi k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck ekran\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda, kendi steril d\u00fcnyas\u0131nda ya\u015f\u0131yor. Kimsenin kimsenin g\u00f6zya\u015f\u0131na tahamm\u00fcl\u00fc yok, so\u011fan\u0131nkine bile. Oysa o g\u00f6zya\u015f\u0131 bizi temizler, kibirlenmemizi engeller. Bir so\u011fan\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda bile a\u011flayabiliyorsan, hala insans\u0131n demektir.<\/p>\n
\u015eimdi o elindeki ak\u0131ll\u0131 telefonu yava\u015f\u00e7a masaya b\u0131rak. Git mutfa\u011fa, tezgah\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcndeki o en bi\u00e7imsiz so\u011fan\u0131 se\u00e7. Soy kabuklar\u0131n\u0131, alt\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131kan o bembeyaz, p\u00fcr\u00fczs\u00fcz tenine bak. Al b\u0131\u00e7a\u011f\u0131 eline, hisset a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131. Ve do\u011framaya ba\u015fla. B\u0131rak g\u00f6zlerin yans\u0131n, b\u0131rak ge\u00e7mi\u015fte b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131n o k\u0131rg\u0131nl\u0131klar, o s\u00f6yleyemedi\u011fin s\u00f6zler o ya\u015flarla beraber s\u00fcz\u00fcls\u00fcn gitsin yanaklar\u0131ndan. Sonra da at onlar\u0131 k\u0131zg\u0131n ya\u011f\u0131n i\u00e7ine, bak nas\u0131l \u015fenlik ba\u015fl\u0131yor tencerede. Yemek yapmak felsefedir dediysek bo\u015funa demedik.<\/p>\n
Hadi bakay\u0131m, \u015fimdi usulca da\u011f\u0131l\u0131n ve m\u00fcmk\u00fcnse m\u0131sm\u0131l olun
\nDemirhan.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Hi\u00e7 a\u011flarken tencereye bakt\u0131n\u0131z m\u0131? Bakmad\u0131ysan\u0131z, hen\u00fcz ger\u00e7ek bir yemek pi\u015firmemi\u015fsiniz demektir. \u015eaka yapm\u0131yorum, ciddiyim. \u015eimdi bana “Demirhan Bey, biz buraya yemek tarifi okumaya geldik, senin melankolini \u00e7ekemeyiz” demeyin, o […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[47],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1930","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-gastronomi"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1930","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1930"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1930\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1930"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1930"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1930"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}