Neden a\u011flad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bilmeden a\u011flayan insanlara bay\u0131l\u0131r\u0131m. \u0130\u00e7lerinde bir yerlerde birikmi\u015f o eski, pasl\u0131 tortuyu bir bahaneyle d\u0131\u015far\u0131 f\u0131rlat\u0131verirler. \u0130\u015fte mutfak tezgah\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda, elinde keskin bir b\u0131\u00e7akla dikilen o adam\u0131n ya da kad\u0131n\u0131n durumu tam olarak budur. G\u00f6zya\u015flar\u0131 sicim gibi akarken “so\u011fandand\u0131r” derler. Hadi oradan. So\u011fan sadece bir provokat\u00f6rd\u00fcr, senin o y\u0131llard\u0131r i\u00e7ine att\u0131\u011f\u0131n, “aman tad\u0131m\u0131z ka\u00e7mas\u0131n” diye yuttu\u011fun ne varsa, tek bir k\u00fck\u00fcrt gaz\u0131 darbesiyle d\u0131\u015far\u0131 f\u0131rlat\u0131veren bir tetik\u00e7idir o. Bug\u00fcn seninle, o fiyakal\u0131 gurme restoranlar\u0131n\u0131n men\u00fclerinde ad\u0131 bile an\u0131lmayan, ama onlar olmadan o mutfaklar\u0131n birer mermer mezarl\u0131\u011fa d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fece\u011fi o muazzam c\u00fcceyi konu\u015faca\u011f\u0131z: So\u011fan\u0131.<\/p>\n
K\u0131rk y\u0131ld\u0131r elime kalem al\u0131r, insan y\u00fczleri \u00e7izerim. Portre \u00e7izerken de t\u0131pk\u0131 so\u011fan soyar gibi hissederim kendimi. \u0130lk bak\u0131\u015fta g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn o sert, kuru, kahverengi kabuktur. \u0130nsan\u0131n d\u0131\u015f d\u00fcnyaya kar\u015f\u0131 \u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc o savunma mekanizmas\u0131, o “ben g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fcy\u00fcm, bana bir \u015fey olmaz” z\u0131rh\u0131 var ya, i\u015fte o so\u011fan\u0131n en d\u0131\u015ftaki c\u00fcc\u00fckle\u015fmi\u015f kabu\u011fudur. Onu t\u0131rna\u011f\u0131nla hafif\u00e7e kald\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131nda alt\u0131ndan daha taze, daha savunmas\u0131z ama hala kendini korumaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan bir katman \u00e7\u0131kar. Katman katman indik\u00e7e, insan\u0131n da so\u011fan\u0131n da kokusu a\u011f\u0131rla\u015f\u0131r, ger\u00e7e\u011fe yakla\u015f\u0131rs\u0131n. En nihayetinde o c\u00fcc\u00fc\u011fe ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131nda, elinde kalan \u015fey hem \u00e7ok tatl\u0131d\u0131r hem de g\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc ya\u015fartacak kadar keskin. Portrede de b\u00f6yledir; o g\u00f6zlerin etraf\u0131ndaki k\u0131r\u0131\u015f\u0131kl\u0131klar\u0131, al\u0131ndaki o derin \u00e7izgiyi (ki o \u00e7izgi genellikle hayal k\u0131r\u0131kl\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131n co\u011frafi haritas\u0131d\u0131r) \u00e7izerken, modelinin maskesini tek tek soyars\u0131n. Sonunda geriye \u00e7\u0131plak insan kal\u0131r. \u0130\u015fte o an, masan\u0131n \u00fczerindeki o yuvarlak sebzeyle aranda garip bir akrabal\u0131k ba\u011f\u0131 kurars\u0131n.<\/p>\n
Mutfakta artistlik yapmaya gerek yok, iki g\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fcn \u00e7i\u00e7e\u011fi. \u015eimdilerde televizyonlarda, sosyal medyada falan g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum; ellerinde c\u0131mb\u0131zlarla taba\u011fa iki tane ot koyup \u00fczerine k\u00f6p\u00fck s\u0131kan o “yeni nesil” \u015fefleri. Yahu, sen o taba\u011fa istedi\u011fin kadar molek\u00fcler ill\u00fczyon yap, o mutfakta sabah\u0131n k\u00f6r\u00fcnde o so\u011fanlar soyulup do\u011franmad\u0131ysa, o tencerenin dibinde o alt\u0131n sar\u0131s\u0131 karamelizasyon ger\u00e7ekle\u015fmediyse, yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131n \u015fey sadece tabak boyamakt\u0131r. Sanat de\u011fildir o, olsa olsa g\u00f6z boyamad\u0131r. Ger\u00e7ek yemek, o so\u011fan\u0131n tencerenin dibine yap\u0131\u015f\u0131p kalemi ka\u011f\u0131da s\u00fcrter gibi ses \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131\u011f\u0131 an ba\u015flar. O “c\u0131s” sesi, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en eski ve en samimi melodisidir. O ses ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131nda, evde oldu\u011funu anlars\u0131n. Ev dedi\u011fin yer, kokusundan tan\u0131n\u0131r zira.<\/p>\n
Gelelim \u015fu i\u015fin teknik k\u0131sm\u0131na. Hani derler ya, “alet de\u011fi\u015fir, el de\u011fi\u015fmez” diye. Benim hayat felsefemdir bu. \u0130stersen \u015eam \u00e7eli\u011finden yap\u0131lma, bin dolarl\u0131k japon \u015fef b\u0131\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n olsun, istersen anan\u0131n \u00e7eyizinden kalma, sap\u0131 tel ile sar\u0131lm\u0131\u015f o emektar meyve b\u0131\u00e7a\u011f\u0131… E\u011fer o so\u011fana nas\u0131l yakla\u015faca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bilmiyorsan, o b\u0131\u00e7ak elinde sadece bir odun par\u00e7as\u0131d\u0131r. So\u011fan\u0131 do\u011frarken acele etmeyeceksin. Acele eden adam, hayattan da bir \u015fey anlamaz. Hayat\u0131n tad\u0131n\u0131 h\u0131zl\u0131 ko\u015fanlar de\u011fil, durup etraf\u0131na bakanlar \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131r. So\u011fan\u0131 ortadan ikiye b\u00f6leceksin \u00f6nce. O i\u00e7erideki m\u00fckemmel geometrik halkalar\u0131 g\u00f6receksin. Do\u011fan\u0131n o sessiz mimarisini izleyeceksin birka\u00e7 saniye (tabii o esnada parma\u011f\u0131n\u0131 do\u011framamaya dikkat edeceksin, zira kan\u0131n rengi yeme\u011fe yak\u0131\u015fmaz, lezzeti bozar). Sonra usul usul, ritmik darbelerle… Tak, tak, tak. O ses mutfa\u011f\u0131n kalbidir.<\/p>\n
So\u011fan\u0131n bu d\u00fcnyadaki yolculu\u011fu da bizimki gibidir asl\u0131nda. Topra\u011f\u0131n alt\u0131nda, karanl\u0131kta ba\u015flar her \u015fey. Kimse seni g\u00f6rmezken, sen orada kendi i\u00e7indeki o katmanlar\u0131 in\u015fa edersin. Sonra bir g\u00fcn seni yukar\u0131 \u00e7ekerler. G\u00fcne\u015fle tan\u0131\u015f\u0131rs\u0131n ama bu sefer de seni soyup so\u011fana \u00e7evirirler, do\u011frarlar, s\u0131cak ya\u011f\u0131n i\u00e7ine atarlar. Ama bak i\u015fte mucize buradad\u0131r: O ac\u0131, o keskin, o insan\u0131 a\u011flatan sebze; ate\u015fle bulu\u015ftu\u011funda, o s\u0131cak ya\u011f\u0131n i\u00e7inde sab\u0131rla kavruldu\u011funda \u015fekerini salar, tatl\u0131la\u015f\u0131r. \u0130nsan da b\u00f6yledir i\u015fte. Hayat seni h\u0131rpalad\u0131k\u00e7a, o s\u0131cak tencerenin i\u00e7ine at\u0131p kavurduk\u00e7a, e\u011fer mayan sa\u011flamsa, i\u00e7indeki o gizli tatl\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131, o olgunlu\u011fu ortaya \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131rs\u0131n. Kavrulduk\u00e7a g\u00fczelle\u015firsin. Yok e\u011fer \u00e7i\u011f kalmakta \u0131srar edersen, sadece etraf\u0131ndakilerin midesine oturursun, ba\u015fka da bir i\u015fe yaramazs\u0131n.<\/p>\n
Mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcm\u00fczde so\u011fan\u0131n yerini anlatmaya kalksak, buradan k\u00f6ye yol olur. Ama ben sana o \u00e7ok sevdi\u011fim, fakir fukara sofralar\u0131n\u0131n o asil rit\u00fcelini anlatay\u0131m. Eskiler iyi bilir, bir kuru so\u011fan ve bir somun ekmekle kar\u0131n doyurman\u0131n o muazzam asaletini. Yumru\u011funu vurursun o so\u011fan\u0131n tepesine. \u00d6yle b\u0131\u00e7akla kibar kibar kesmek de\u011fil, d\u00fcped\u00fcz bile\u011finin g\u00fcc\u00fcyle, y\u00fcre\u011finin a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131yla vurursun. O so\u011fan orac\u0131kta par\u00e7alan\u0131r, suyu masaya sa\u00e7\u0131l\u0131r. \u0130\u015fte o k\u0131r\u0131k so\u011fan\u0131n kokusu, saray sofralar\u0131ndaki hi\u00e7bir havyarda, hi\u00e7bir tr\u00fcf mantar\u0131nda yoktur. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc o darbe, hayata kar\u015f\u0131 vurulmu\u015f bir ba\u015fkald\u0131r\u0131d\u0131r. “Sen beni ne kadar ezersen ez, ben yine de bu sofrada seninle ba\u015f ederim” demektir. O so\u011fan\u0131n c\u00fcc\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc kopar\u0131p a\u011fz\u0131na att\u0131\u011f\u0131nda, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en zengin adam\u0131 sensindir art\u0131k. Yan\u0131na da biraz tulum peyniri varsa, de\u011fme keyfine.<\/p>\n
\u015eimdi sana, so\u011fan\u0131 mutfakta hak etti\u011fi yere koyman i\u00e7in k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir manifesto haz\u0131rlad\u0131m. Bunlar\u0131 akl\u0131n\u0131n bir k\u00f6\u015fesine yaz, belki bir g\u00fcn o fiyakal\u0131 mutfa\u011f\u0131nda i\u015fine yarar:<\/p>\n
Uzun laf\u0131n k\u0131sas\u0131, iki g\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fcn \u00e7i\u00e7e\u011fi; mutfakta ya da hayatta, ne i\u015f yap\u0131yorsan yap, o i\u015fin temelindeki o m\u00fctevaz\u0131 malzemeye sayg\u0131 duyacaks\u0131n. Portre \u00e7izerken o ka\u011f\u0131da nas\u0131l h\u00fcrmet ediyorsan, tencereye so\u011fan\u0131 atarken de \u00f6yle h\u00fcrmet edeceksin. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc hayat, o en altta kalan, g\u00f6r\u00fcnmeyen, ad\u0131 an\u0131lmayan detaylar\u0131n toplam\u0131ndan ibarettir. Sen o detaylar\u0131 g\u00f6rmezden gelirsen, hayat da seni g\u00f6rmezden gelir. Bir g\u00fcn yolun d\u00fc\u015fer de mutfa\u011fa girersen, o so\u011fan\u0131 eline ald\u0131\u011f\u0131nda beni hat\u0131rla. Onun o katmanlar\u0131nda kendi ge\u00e7mi\u015fini ara. Belki bir yerlerde, o eski, tatl\u0131 c\u00fcc\u00fc\u011fe rastlars\u0131n.<\/p>\n
Hadi bakay\u0131m, \u015fimdi usulca da\u011f\u0131l\u0131n ve m\u00fcmk\u00fcnse m\u0131sm\u0131l olun
\nDemirhan.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Neden a\u011flad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bilmeden a\u011flayan insanlara bay\u0131l\u0131r\u0131m. \u0130\u00e7lerinde bir yerlerde birikmi\u015f o eski, pasl\u0131 tortuyu bir bahaneyle d\u0131\u015far\u0131 f\u0131rlat\u0131verirler. \u0130\u015fte mutfak tezgah\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda, elinde keskin bir b\u0131\u00e7akla dikilen o adam\u0131n ya […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[47],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1918","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-gastronomi"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1918","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1918"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1918\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1919,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1918\/revisions\/1919"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1918"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1918"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1918"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}