{"id":1912,"date":"2026-05-26T22:00:37","date_gmt":"2026-05-26T20:00:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/2026\/05\/26\/gozyasinin-mutfagi-sogan-sabir-ve-elin-kadim-hafizasi\/"},"modified":"2026-05-26T22:00:38","modified_gmt":"2026-05-26T20:00:38","slug":"gozyasinin-mutfagi-sogan-sabir-ve-elin-kadim-hafizasi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/2026\/05\/26\/gozyasinin-mutfagi-sogan-sabir-ve-elin-kadim-hafizasi\/","title":{"rendered":"G\u00f6zya\u015f\u0131n\u0131n Mutfa\u011f\u0131: So\u011fan, Sab\u0131r ve Elin Kadim Haf\u0131zas\u0131"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Hi\u00e7 a\u011flarken tencerenin dibini tutturdun mu? Dur, hemen melankoliye ba\u011flama; sevgilin terk etti\u011fi ya da ay sonunu getiremedi\u011fin i\u00e7in d\u00f6kt\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn o fiyakal\u0131 g\u00f6zya\u015flar\u0131ndan bahsetmiyorum. Tezg\u00e2h\u0131n \u00fczerinde duran, d\u0131\u015f\u0131 h\u0131\u015f\u0131r h\u0131\u015f\u0131r kahverengi kabukla kapl\u0131, i\u00e7i ise kat kat s\u0131r olan o c\u00fcc\u00fckten bahsediyorum. So\u011fandan yani. Hani \u015fu her yeme\u011fin girizg\u00e2h\u0131 olan, ama kimsenin ba\u015frole yak\u0131\u015ft\u0131ramad\u0131\u011f\u0131 gizli kahramandan. Mutfakta g\u00f6zya\u015f\u0131 d\u00f6kmek, bu d\u00fcnyada kibirden ar\u0131nman\u0131n en kestirme yoludur bana kal\u0131rsa. O gaz g\u00f6z\u00fcne ka\u00e7t\u0131 m\u0131, ne unvan\u0131n kal\u0131r ne de o \u00e7ok g\u00fcvendi\u011fin karizman. Herkes o tahtan\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda e\u015fit derecede \u00e7aresiz ve insand\u0131r. \u00d6teki falan kalmaz o an; hepimiz ayn\u0131 ac\u0131 s\u00fct\u00fcn \u00f6n\u00fcnde g\u00f6z\u00fc ya\u015fl\u0131 birer faniyizdir.<\/p>\n<p>Ge\u00e7enlerde bizim at\u00f6lyenin mutfa\u011f\u0131nda dolan\u0131yorum (\u00e7izim yapmaktan parmaklar\u0131m\u0131n ucunun hissizle\u015fti\u011fi, kafam\u0131n i\u00e7inde k\u0131rk tilkinin k\u0131rk\u0131n\u0131n da kuyruklar\u0131n\u0131 birbirine de\u011fdirmeden d\u00f6nd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc bir g\u00fcn), g\u00f6z\u00fcm k\u00f6\u015fedeki fileye tak\u0131ld\u0131. \u0130\u00e7inden bir tane so\u011fan se\u00e7tim. \u015e\u00f6yle elime ald\u0131m, a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 hissettim. 40 y\u0131ld\u0131r ka\u011f\u0131t \u00fczerinde insan y\u00fcz\u00fc \u00e7izen bu eller, mutfakta da ayn\u0131 \u015feyi ar\u0131yor asl\u0131nda: Karakter. Bir insan\u0131n y\u00fcz\u00fcndeki o derin \u00e7izgiler neyse, so\u011fan\u0131n katmanlar\u0131 da odur. \u0130kisi de ya\u015fanm\u0131\u015fl\u0131\u011f\u0131, saklanmay\u0131 ve en nihayetinde soyulduk\u00e7a ortaya \u00e7\u0131kan o \u00e7\u0131plak ger\u00e7e\u011fi anlat\u0131r. Bir portre \u00e7izerken de \u00f6nce o insan\u0131n y\u00fck\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6r\u00fcr\u00fcm demi\u015ftim ya, mutfakta da durum farkl\u0131 de\u011fil. Tencereye neyi, ne kadar y\u00fckle girmek istedi\u011finle ilgilidir her \u015fey. Aceleyle, hoyrat\u00e7a do\u011franm\u0131\u015f bir so\u011fanla, her darbede hakk\u0131 verilmi\u015f bir so\u011fan\u0131n yeme\u011fe f\u0131s\u0131ldad\u0131\u011f\u0131 hikaye asla ayn\u0131 olamaz.<\/p>\n<p>\u015eimdi baz\u0131lar\u0131 \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p diyecek ki: &#8220;Demirhan abi, art\u0131k rondo var, teknoloji geli\u015fti, saniyede darmada\u011f\u0131n ediyor her \u015feyi.&#8221; Behey gafil! Sen o makineye so\u011fan\u0131 att\u0131\u011f\u0131nda, onu do\u011fram\u0131yorsun; onun ruhunu eziyorsun, suyunu \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131p ac\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 nefrete d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fcyorsun. Alet de\u011fi\u015fir, el de\u011fi\u015fmez derken tam da bunu kastediyorum i\u015fte. Elinde o b\u0131\u00e7akla tahtaya vururken \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131\u011f\u0131n o ritmik ses var ya, i\u015fte o mutfa\u011f\u0131n kalp at\u0131\u015f\u0131d\u0131r. O ritmi kaybetti\u011fin an, sadece kar\u0131n doyurmak i\u00e7in bir \u015feyler bulama\u00e7 haline getiren bir t\u00fcketiciye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcrs\u00fcn. Oysa yemek yapmak, o malzemeyle hemhal olmakt\u0131r, onunla dertle\u015fmektir. B\u0131\u00e7ak elinin bir uzant\u0131s\u0131 olacak, t\u0131rna\u011f\u0131n\u0131 hafif\u00e7e i\u00e7eri k\u0131racaks\u0131n ki parma\u011f\u0131ndan olmayas\u0131n (burada ufak bir mutfak kazas\u0131 hat\u0131ras\u0131 canland\u0131 kafamda ama neyse, o parma\u011f\u0131 hala kullanabiliyorum \u00e7ok \u015f\u00fck\u00fcr).<\/p>\n<p>Peki, nedir bu so\u011fan\u0131n alametifarikas\u0131? Neden her \u015fey onunla ba\u015flar? \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc so\u011fan, mutfa\u011f\u0131n sab\u0131r testidir. Onu \u00f6ylece ya\u011fa at\u0131p iki \u00e7evirip pembele\u015fti demek, kendini kand\u0131rmaktan ba\u015fka bir \u015fey de\u011fildir. So\u011fan\u0131n karamelize olmas\u0131 demek, i\u00e7indeki o gizli \u015fekerin, o sert ve ac\u0131mas\u0131z yap\u0131n\u0131n s\u0131ca\u011f\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda boyun e\u011fip yumu\u015famas\u0131 demektir. T\u0131pk\u0131 hayatta sert k\u00f6\u015feleri olan insanlar\u0131n, do\u011fru bir s\u0131cakl\u0131kla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131klar\u0131nda d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en tatl\u0131 insanlar\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fmesi gibi. Acele etmeyeceksin. Alt\u0131n\u0131 k\u0131sacaks\u0131n o oca\u011f\u0131n. O so\u011fan orada usul usul, kendi suyuyla, kendi ya\u011f\u0131yla kavrulacak. Rengi kahverengiye d\u00f6nerken etrafa yayd\u0131\u011f\u0131 o koku, asl\u0131nda bir teslimiyet kokusudur. \u0130\u015fte o an, mutfaktaki en b\u00fcy\u00fck felsefi d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcmlerden birine \u015fahitlik ediyorsun demektir.<\/p>\n<p>Gelin, mutfaktaki o kadim hatalar\u0131 ve bu i\u015fin do\u011frusunu bir araya getirelim de bir daha o g\u00fczelim malzemeyi mundar etmeyin:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Rondo kullanmay\u0131 b\u0131rak\u0131n:<\/strong> So\u011fan\u0131 ezmeyin, kesin. Ezilen so\u011fan suyunu salar ve ac\u0131la\u015f\u0131r. Keskin bir b\u0131\u00e7ak, so\u011fan\u0131n h\u00fccrelerini ezmeden b\u00f6ler ve o tatl\u0131 aroman\u0131n i\u00e7eride kalmas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flar.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Sar\u0131msakla so\u011fan\u0131 ayn\u0131 anda tavaya atmay\u0131n:<\/strong> Sar\u0131msak narindir, \u00e7abuk yanar. So\u011fan daha pi\u015fmeden sar\u0131msa\u011f\u0131 yakarsan\u0131z, yeme\u011fe sadece yan\u0131k ve ac\u0131 bir tat b\u0131rak\u0131rs\u0131n\u0131z. \u00d6nce so\u011fan pi\u015fecek, sar\u0131msak sahneye en son, kokusunu vermek i\u00e7in \u00e7\u0131kacak.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Is\u0131 kontrol\u00fcn\u00fc \u00f6\u011frenin:<\/strong> Y\u00fcksek ate\u015f acelecilerin i\u015fidir. Mutfakta sab\u0131rs\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n sonu her zaman h\u00fcsrand\u0131r. So\u011fan\u0131 yakmadan, terleterek pi\u015firmek esast\u0131r. B\u0131rak\u0131n o kendi ya\u011f\u0131nda demlensin.<\/li>\n<li><strong>K\u00f6k k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 en son kesin:<\/strong> So\u011fan\u0131 do\u011frarken da\u011f\u0131lmas\u0131n\u0131 istemiyorsan\u0131z, o sakall\u0131 k\u00f6k k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 en son kesip at\u0131n. O k\u00f6k, do\u011frama esnas\u0131nda katmanlar\u0131 bir arada tutan yegane \u00e7imentodur.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Ge\u00e7en y\u0131l Berlin\u2019de bir dostun evinde mutfaktay\u0131z. D\u0131\u015far\u0131da buz gibi bir hava, g\u00f6\u00e7menlerin, s\u0131\u011f\u0131nmac\u0131lar\u0131n, her milletten insan\u0131n bir arada ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 o me\u015fhur Kreuzberg sokaklar\u0131 sessizli\u011fe b\u00fcr\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015f. Ev sahibi arkada\u015f, d\u00fcnyay\u0131 kurtarmaktan bahseden, teoriler havada u\u00e7u\u015fan fiyakal\u0131 c\u00fcmleler kuruyor. Siyasetten giriyoruz, s\u0131n\u0131fsal \u00e7eli\u015fkilerden \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yoruz. Ben o s\u0131rada tezg\u00e2hta sessizce so\u011fan do\u011fruyorum. \u00c7orba yapaca\u011f\u0131z. Arkada\u015f bir ara durdu, bana bakt\u0131. &#8220;Demirhan&#8221; dedi, &#8220;sen bu teorilere ne diyorsun?&#8221; Kafam\u0131 kald\u0131rd\u0131m, g\u00f6zlerim hafif\u00e7e ya\u015farm\u0131\u015f (havadan tabii, yoksa duyguland\u0131\u011f\u0131mdan de\u011fil). &#8220;Bak karde\u015fim&#8221; dedim, &#8220;bu tencereye giren so\u011fan var ya, ne senin o \u00e7ok sevdi\u011fin burjuva s\u0131n\u0131f\u0131n\u0131 tan\u0131r ne de benim sokaktaki gariban\u0131. \u0130kisinin de midesine girdi\u011finde ayn\u0131 s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131 verir. \u00d6nemli olan bu so\u011fan\u0131 yakmadan, o \u00e7orbay\u0131 herkese e\u015fit payla\u015ft\u0131rabilmektir. Teoriyi bo\u015f ver, tuzu uzat hele.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>\u0130\u015fte b\u00f6yle sevgili okur. Hayat da mutfak gibidir. Bize \u00e7ok karma\u015f\u0131k g\u00f6r\u00fcnen form\u00fcller sunarlar, b\u00fcy\u00fck laflar ederler, aletlerin en pahal\u0131s\u0131n\u0131, b\u0131\u00e7aklar\u0131n en fiyakal\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fcze koyarlar. Ama g\u00fcn\u00fcn sonunda o yeme\u011fe tad\u0131n\u0131 veren \u015fey, senin o malzemeye g\u00f6sterdi\u011fin \u015fefkattir, sab\u0131rd\u0131r. Oca\u011f\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda beklerken ge\u00e7irdi\u011fin o be\u015f dakikad\u0131r. Elin haf\u0131zas\u0131d\u0131r. 40 y\u0131ld\u0131r \u00e7izdi\u011fim o portrelerde de, pi\u015firdi\u011fim o tencere yemeklerinde de hep ayn\u0131 \u015feyi g\u00f6rd\u00fcm: \u0130nsan, her nerede olursa olsun, \u00f6z\u00fcnde bir s\u0131cakl\u0131k ve samimiyet ar\u0131yor. Gerisi sadece teferruat, gerisi sadece ambalaj.<\/p>\n<p>Hadi bakay\u0131m, \u015fimdi usulca da\u011f\u0131l\u0131n ve m\u00fcmk\u00fcnse m\u0131sm\u0131l olun<br \/>\nDemirhan.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Hi\u00e7 a\u011flarken tencerenin dibini tutturdun mu? Dur, hemen melankoliye ba\u011flama; sevgilin terk etti\u011fi ya da ay sonunu getiremedi\u011fin i\u00e7in d\u00f6kt\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn o fiyakal\u0131 g\u00f6zya\u015flar\u0131ndan bahsetmiyorum. Tezg\u00e2h\u0131n \u00fczerinde duran, d\u0131\u015f\u0131 h\u0131\u015f\u0131r h\u0131\u015f\u0131r [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[47],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1912","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-gastronomi"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1912","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1912"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1912\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1913,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1912\/revisions\/1913"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1912"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1912"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1912"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}