![\"image\"](\"https:\/\/images.pexels.com\/photos\/37080266\/pexels-photo-37080266.jpeg?auto=compress&cs=tinysrgb&fit=crop&h=627&w=1200\")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
Hi\u00e7 sisli bir Stuttgart sabah\u0131nda, Neckar nehrinin kenar\u0131nda y\u00fcr\u00fcrken burnunuza aniden pi\u015fi kokusu geldi mi? Gelmediyse, ya yanl\u0131\u015f sokaktas\u0131n\u0131zd\u0131r ya da burnunuz t\u0131kal\u0131d\u0131r canca\u011f\u0131z\u0131m. Mercedes\u2019in, Porsche\u2019nin, o me\u015fhur “Kehrwoche” (hani \u015fu cumartesi sabahlar\u0131 apartman \u00f6n\u00fcn\u00fc \u00e7\u0131lg\u0131nlar gibi s\u00fcp\u00fcrme ayini) disiplininin g\u00f6be\u011finde, kurallar\u0131 esneten, havay\u0131 yumu\u015fatan ve insan\u0131 ceketinin d\u00fc\u011fmelerini \u00e7\u00f6zmeye zorlayan bir \u015feyler var: T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131. Ama \u00f6yle bildi\u011finiz, turistik bro\u015f\u00fcrlerdeki gibi steril bir \u015feyden bahsetmiyorum. Baya\u011f\u0131, kemikli, kokulu, ger\u00e7ek bir mutfaktan bahsediyorum.<\/p>\n
Stuttgart, Almanya\u2019n\u0131n en zengin ama ayn\u0131 zamanda en tutumlu, en “m\u0131sm\u0131l” ya\u015famaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan eyaletlerinden birinin kalbi. Burada her \u015fey planl\u0131d\u0131r. Bir Alman kom\u015fun varsa, ak\u015fam yeme\u011finde ne yiyece\u011fini \u00fc\u00e7 g\u00fcn \u00f6nceden bilir. Bizde ise i\u015fler \u00f6yle y\u00fcr\u00fcmez. Can\u0131n o an kuru fasulye \u00e7ekmi\u015fse, o fasulye o tencereye girecektir, vesselam. \u0130\u015fte bu iki taban tabana z\u0131t karakter, Stuttgart\u2019\u0131n gastronomi sahnesinde muazzam bir \u00e7arp\u0131\u015fma ya\u015f\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Bad Cannstatt\u2019\u0131n ara sokaklar\u0131nda ya da Karlsplatz\u2019\u0131n oralarda y\u00fcr\u00fcrken, o p\u0131r\u0131l p\u0131r\u0131l Alman vitrinlerinin aras\u0131nda aniden beliren bir esnaf lokantas\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcrs\u00fcn. Cam\u0131nda “Tagesmen\u00fc” yazar ama i\u00e7eride kaynayan \u015fey d\u00fcped\u00fcz Anadolu\u2019dur. Tepside dizili duran karn\u0131yar\u0131klar, f\u0131r\u0131ndan yeni \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f t\u0131rnak pideleri… (Burada bir parantez a\u00e7ay\u0131m: Alman f\u0131r\u0131nc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00fcnyada tektir, kabul ederim ama s\u0131cak bir Ramazan pidesinin o t\u0131rnak izindeki felsefeyi de hi\u00e7bir Alman f\u0131r\u0131nc\u0131 tam olarak \u00e7\u00f6zememi\u015ftir. O ba\u015fka bir el, ba\u015fka bir ruh i\u015fidir).<\/p>\n
“Alet de\u011fi\u015fir, el de\u011fi\u015fmez derim hep. Resim \u00e7izerken de b\u00f6yledir, mutfakta da. Stuttgart\u2019\u0131n modern, elektrikli ocaklar\u0131nda pi\u015fen yeme\u011fin tad\u0131n\u0131 belirleyen \u015fey o oca\u011f\u0131n markas\u0131 de\u011fil, tencereyi kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131ran elin memleket hasretidir.”<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
D\u00f6nerin Evrimi: “Mit Alles Knoblauch?”<\/h2>\n
\u015eimdi e\u011fri otural\u0131m do\u011fru konu\u015fal\u0131m. Almanya\u2019da T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131 denince akla ilk gelen \u015fey d\u00f6nerdir. Ama Stuttgart\u2019ta yiyece\u011finiz d\u00f6ner, \u0130stanbul\u2019un ya da Ankara\u2019n\u0131n d\u00f6nerine benzemez. Buradaki d\u00f6ner, g\u00f6\u00e7\u00fcn kendi yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 melez bir sanatt\u0131r. \u0130\u00e7ine k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 lahana koyarlar, \u00fczerine sar\u0131msakl\u0131 yo\u011furt sosu d\u00f6kerler. \u0130lk ba\u015flarda bunu g\u00f6ren her geleneksel T\u00fcrk gastronomu “Ulan, d\u00f6nerin i\u00e7ine marul tarlas\u0131 m\u0131 ekilir?” diye isyan etmi\u015ftir (ben dahil, yalan yok). Ama zamanla anlars\u0131n ki, o sos ve o ye\u015fillik, buran\u0131n so\u011fuk havas\u0131nda hayatta kalmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan insan\u0131n uydurdu\u011fu bir kalkand\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Bir g\u00fcn Stuttgart\u2019taki eski bir d\u00f6nerci abimizle muhabbet ediyoruz. Adam\u0131n elleri t\u0131pk\u0131 benim desen \u00e7izdi\u011fim nas\u0131rl\u0131 parmaklar\u0131m gibi, y\u0131llar\u0131n izini ta\u015f\u0131yor. “Demirhan” dedi, “Biz buraya geldi\u011fimizde Almanlar sar\u0131msaktan ka\u00e7ard\u0131. \u015eimdi ‘extra knoblauch’ (ekstra sar\u0131msak) diye yalvar\u0131yorlar. Biz onlara sadece yemek yapmad\u0131k, dillerini ve damaklar\u0131n\u0131 da de\u011fi\u015ftirdik.” Hakl\u0131yd\u0131. Yemek, en bar\u0131\u015f\u00e7\u0131l i\u015fgal y\u00f6ntemidir. Silahs\u0131z, g\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fcs\u00fcz, sadece lezzetle fethedersin kalpleri.<\/p>\n
Menemenin S\u0131n\u0131r Tan\u0131mayan Karde\u015fli\u011fi<\/h2>\n
Benim i\u00e7in bir \u015fehrin ger\u00e7ek y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6rmek istiyorsan, pazar sabah\u0131 kahvalt\u0131 mekanlar\u0131na bakacaks\u0131n. Stuttgart\u2019ta hafta sonu bir T\u00fcrk kahvalt\u0131s\u0131 mekan\u0131na gidin. Masalarda sadece bural\u0131 T\u00fcrkler yok. Sar\u0131\u015f\u0131n, mavi g\u00f6zl\u00fc, hayat\u0131 boyunca disiplinden ba\u015fka bir \u015fey g\u00f6rmemi\u015f Hans da orada, s\u0131rt \u00e7antal\u0131 gezgin yuppie\u2019ler de. Ortaya gelen s\u0131cak bir menemene ekmek banarken herkes e\u015fitleniyor. \u0130\u015fte benim en sevdi\u011fim an bu. “\u00d6teki” diye bir \u015fey kalm\u0131yor o masada. Herkes ayn\u0131 s\u0131cak tavan\u0131n etraf\u0131nda, ayn\u0131 ekme\u011fin pe\u015finde.<\/p>\n
Menemen demi\u015fken; Stuttgart\u2019ta d\u00fczg\u00fcn domates bulmak bir sanatt\u0131r. O kuzey g\u00fcne\u015fiyle b\u00fcy\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f, i\u00e7i beyaz, tats\u0131z tuzsuz domateslerle menemen yapmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmak, k\u00f6r bir kalemle portre \u00e7izmeye benzer. Ama bizim a\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar ne yapar eder, o domatesi bir \u015fekilde terbiye eder, i\u00e7ine biberi, yumurtay\u0131 \u00f6yle bir ayarla koyar ki, sanki domates d\u00fcn Antalya\u2019dan gelmi\u015f gibi hissettirir. \u0130\u015fte bu, zanaatt\u0131r. Malzemeye boyun e\u011fmemek, onu kendi diline uydurmakt\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Vatandan Uzakta pi\u015fen “Y\u00fck”<\/h2>\n
Portre \u00e7izerken insanlar\u0131n y\u00fcz\u00fcndeki \u00e7izgilerden \u00f6nce omuzlar\u0131ndaki y\u00fck\u00fc g\u00f6r\u00fcr\u00fcm demi\u015ftim ya. Stuttgart\u2019taki T\u00fcrk restoranlar\u0131nda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan insanlara bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131mda da ayn\u0131 \u015feyi g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum. O mutfaktaki bula\u015f\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 kad\u0131n\u0131n, d\u00f6ner b\u0131\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n\u0131 sallayan gencin, kasadaki amcan\u0131n y\u00fcz\u00fcnde hep ayn\u0131 ifade var: Gitmekle kalmak aras\u0131nda s\u0131k\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f, ama tencerenin kapa\u011f\u0131n\u0131 a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131nda \u00e7\u0131kan o buharla evine, \u00e7ocuklu\u011funa d\u00f6nen insanlar\u0131n ifadesi. <\/p>\n
Yemek yemek, sadece biyolojik bir ihtiya\u00e7 de\u011fil, bir hat\u0131rlama bi\u00e7imidir. Stuttgart\u2019taki T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131, buradaki milyonlarca insan i\u00e7in bir haf\u0131za saray\u0131d\u0131r. Oraya giderler, bir tas mercimek \u00e7orbas\u0131 i\u00e7erler ve bir anl\u0131\u011f\u0131na da olsa gurbetin o so\u011fuk, gri havas\u0131ndan kurtulup \u00e7ocukluklar\u0131n\u0131n s\u0131cak yaz g\u00fcnlerine d\u00f6nerler. <\/p>\n
Sonu\u00e7 olarak g\u00f6z\u00fcm; Stuttgart\u2019a yolun d\u00fc\u015ferse, l\u00fcks restoranlar\u0131n so\u011fuk tabaklar\u0131na \u00e7ok kap\u0131lma. Git bir ara sokakta, cam\u0131nda buhar olan, i\u00e7eriden ne\u015feli bir T\u00fcrk\u00e7e m\u00fczi\u011fin y\u00fckseldi\u011fi o m\u00fctevaz\u0131 d\u00fckkanlardan birine gir. Bir \u00e7ay s\u00f6yle, yan\u0131na da f\u0131r\u0131ndan yeni \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f bir \u015feyler iste. D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en d\u00fczenli \u015fehrinde, o g\u00fczel d\u00fczensizli\u011fin tad\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kar.<\/p>\n
Hadi bakay\u0131m, \u015fimdi usulca da\u011f\u0131l\u0131n ve m\u00fcmk\u00fcnse m\u0131sm\u0131l olun
\nDemirhan.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Hi\u00e7 sisli bir Stuttgart sabah\u0131nda, Neckar nehrinin kenar\u0131nda y\u00fcr\u00fcrken burnunuza aniden pi\u015fi kokusu geldi mi? Gelmediyse, ya yanl\u0131\u015f sokaktas\u0131n\u0131zd\u0131r ya da burnunuz t\u0131kal\u0131d\u0131r canca\u011f\u0131z\u0131m. Mercedes\u2019in, Porsche\u2019nin, o me\u015fhur “Kehrwoche” (hani […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[47],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1902","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-gastronomi"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1902","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1902"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1902\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1902"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1902"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/demirhanocak.com\/site26\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1902"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}